Expedition to Nevado Mateo (5150 m) & Nevado Alpamayo (5957 m)

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Highlights of the Cordillera Blanca. The highest tropical mountain range in the world, the Cordillera Blanca is part of the spectacular Andes that form the spine of South America. A mecca for hikers and outdoor enthusiasts, the region boasts over 50 peaks that exceed 15,000 feet, 700 glaciers and 300 lakes.

About Alpamayo Peak: The pyramid shaped Alpamayo is considered one of the most beautiful mountains in the world. The ascent toward the peak is very steep and the majority of it is a technical climb. This mountain should only be attempted by those who are well acclimatized and who have summited of other high peaks. From one side Alpamayo is an almost perfect pyramid, covered with enormous ice shelves. The other face, the trapezoidal southwest wall, is even more beautiful. All of the Cordillera Blanca mountain range is protected by Huascarán National Park, a paradise of snowcapped peaks. The park also includes the peaks of Huandoy and Huascarán (the highest mountain in Peru), as well as 663 glaciers, 269 lakes, some 42 rivers, as well as 33 archaeological sites.

About Nevado Alpamayo Routes: Alpamayo should not be underestimated. Lessthan half of the climbers coming to the BC make it to the top.

NB: After the July-2003-icefall the conditions in Alapmayo SW-face seem to have changed.
Ferrari: AD+, 10m 70°, 8 pitches 45°, 1 pitch 55°. 5-7h.
Frech Direct: D+ 50°-65°, 10 pitches. 6-8h Start near the lowermost part of the bergschrund (1½h). After 1/3 of the ascent follow the runnel leading to the top.
North Ridge: D The route of the first ascent. Nowadays unusual due to the higher objective risks. The ridge can be gained from Laguna Jancarurish or by traversing from the col.
Descent: Rappel down the way you came respectively the Ferrari Route (snow stakes most times in situ).

Travel Program

Meeting with the Peru Expeditions Tours team at Lima airport (early flight! or Bus drive to Huaraz). Transfer to the hotel. Day of rest and acclimatization in Huaraz. Easy trekking to the observation deck of Ratakenua (3800 m) overlooking the Cordillera Blanca (White Mountains). Overnight at the hotel. Height difference: (3100 m – 3800 m – 3100 m.)

Transfer to the Punta Olympica Pass (4736 m). Acclimatization ascent to the top of Nevado Mateo (5150m). Return to Huaras, overnight at the hotel.

Following breakfast in the hotel, we will take our private bus to the Callejón de Huaylas on the north side of Huaraz. We will travel through the districts of: Carhuas (2650m/8692ft), Yungay (2500m/8200ft), and Caraz (2400m/7872ft), arriving at Hualcayan, our destination, at around 11:00am. Our donkey drivers will be waiting to carry our camping equipment, pleasantly lightening our backpacks. From the trailhead we will ascend for 4 – 5 hours, breaking for lunch along the way and camping overnight at (4200m/13776ft).

After breakfast in Calamina around 07:00am, we will start climbing up to Cullicocha pass located at (4850m/15908ft) going up for about 4 hours. There we will visit two nice lakes called Cullicocha and Yanacocha, and afterwards descending towards Osoruri, our second camp. Along this downhill we will pass icy blue peaks like Macizo de Santa Cruz and Champara, breaking for lunch on the way and arriving to our camp at (4560m/14952ft) after an hour or two

Today we will have early breakfast and then descend to Ruinapampa for about 2 hours. From Ruinapampa we ascend again up to for two hours to Jancarurish – the Alpamayo Base Camp. We can take lunch on the way or in Jancarurish, and from here we have a free afternoon to walk around the camp and take pictures. Dinner and overnight camping at (4300m/14104ft).

Today will be a rest day; we can sleep in a bit, have a relaxing late breakfast, and after that, around 10:00am, our porters will pack some climbing gear and carry it up to the Moraine Camp. Clients can attend if they wish, enjoying the fluted facets of Alpamayo and taking pictures – after that the clients will go down early for hot drinks, dinner, and sleep. Optional visit to the viewpoint Nevado Alpamayo 4850/4850ft).

After a late breakfast, we will head to the Moraine Camp at 10:00am, rising for about 4 hours and carrying our climbing gear. Upon arrival to Moraine Camp we will have hot drinks and a free afternoon to walk around the Camp and enjoy the evening alpenglow on Alpamayo, before dinner and an overnight stay at (4850m/15908ft).

Early breakfast in the Moraine Camp, then we will pack everything to start climb to the Camp 1. During the climb we will enjoy splendid morning views of the jagged Santa Cruz, Quitaraju, Champara, all under the most beautiful mountain in the world – Alpamayo. We will arrive to Camp 1 after 5 hours climb to refreshing hot drinks, dinner, and overnight camping at (5350m/ 17552ft).

Summit day. We will rise early and have breakfast at 2 or 3am then start our climb using headlamps. After about an hour in the snow we will arrive at the base of the wall (French route), where the inclination is approx. 75º, then we will start climbing the wall. After 2 or 3 hours climbing we will breach the summit (5947m/19506ft) to find a vast panorama of pristine and glaciated mountain peaks. After some time enjoying the bounty of the Cordillera Blanca, we will rappel down with the help of our guide, arriving to Camp 1 at 11 or 12 am, just in time for lunch! After Summit we will do some rest in Camp 1, we will take our ascent route back down to Moraine Camp, then we will continue downwards to Base Camp, arriving there around around 5:00pm. Overnight camping in Base Camp in the side Santa Cruz valley.

Today we will return to Huaraz, hiking along the Santa Cruz valley and enjoying nice views of Jatuncocha and Ichiccocha Lake. Upon reaching Cashapampa, our transportation will be waiting for us and will have a last stop for lunch before boarding our private transfer for the return to Huaraz. The drive will take about three hours, and we will arrive back to Huaraz around 2 to 3:00pm. Day 11: Transfer to the Anta Airport and 50 minute flight to Lima, or transfer to the bus terminal for the 8 hour ride to Lima. Transfer to the hotel
Options: Flight or bus. Flights are via LC-Peru and last 50 minutes. Overnight Hotel

Arrival in USA or Austria, Switzerland,Germany, etc. Overnight flight

Included meals: B=breakfast; L=lunch; D=dinner

What's Included

Services included in the prices:

  • Peruvian qualified and experienced local guide/s
  • All meals during the tour
  • Camping tents (2 persons)
  • Porters Nevado Vallunaraju (2 pax 1 porter)
  • Kitchen equipment
  • Cooks
  • Donkey driver and donkeys
  • Transportation as tour schedule / Huaraz

Not included:

  • International flights to Lima / Peru round trip
  • Transfer from the airport for bookings of individual flights with different times of arrival / departure
  • Exit tax at the airport in Lima
  • Travel accident and health insurance
  • Luggage insurance and trip cancellation
  • Meals in restaurants in Lima and Huaraz
  • Personal expenses
  • Acclimatization Tour
  • Entrance fees to the Huascaran National Park
  • Transfer from the Hotel to the airport and bus station
  • Domestic flight Airline ticket LC-Peru
  • Hotel Casa Andina 2 nights in Lima
  • Hotel San Sebastián 4 nights in Huaraz
  • Pick up at the airport in Lima to the Hote
  • Personal equipment (such as boots, ice ax, crampons, harness, sleeping bag, mat, Goretex, etc.)
  • Tips

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» Additional dates available upon request
» Rates may vary from July 26th to 31th for the national holidays

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Deposit for reservations: — USD (– EUR) ✓ Full payment 40 days before. No refund if you cancel less than 30 days!

Places: 🟢 *Available
Trip-code: Number ►PER-
Duration: 11 days
Participants: Minimal: 4 Maximal: 12
Members: We don’t have an open group to join – We can open a new group – Contact us!
Country / Location: Peru
Mountain Guide: Juventino Albino Caldua
Other dates / additional info: Contact us!

3% early bird discount when booking 6 months prior to departure 2023

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Juventino Albino Caldua

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