Expedition Nevado Artesonraju (6025 m)
About Artesonraju Peak: Artesonraju (6,025 m) is one of the approximately 50 peaks of the Cordillera Blanca known especially for its exceptional settings for mountaineering. Pyramidal and completely covered in ice and snow all year, this mountain of unequalled beauty is situated between the two gorges of the Santa Cruz Massif to the north and the Parón to the south. It’s frequently considered the iconic mountain in the Paramount pictures introduction.
From its high plateau alongside the Paron Gorge, it is 1,025 meters to the peak. It can usually be climbed in 8-12 hours round-trip. According to the International French Adjectival System (IFAS), it’s categorized as TD+: very difficult +, on the route of the South Ridge, and D: Difficult, via the “normal” route.
Artesonraju offers two primary ascent routes: The first runs through the North Edge, born in the Santa Cruz Gorge, while the second rises via the southeast face from Parón Lake, at the end of the gorge of the same name. This last route is very technically demanding, requiring advanced experience in ice climbing. You conquer a slope of 1,200 meters with a gradient that varies between 45 and 55 degrees, sometimes surpassing 60 degrees.
Avalanches: Avalanches are a common occurrence at the start of the climbing season, due to the large accumulation of snow on the steep slopes. During May and August, the strong winds produce the phenomenon known as “Placa de Viento“ or wind slabs – very dangerous because below a thin layer of ice there is spongy snow that doesn’t offer good anchor nor security.
David Sharman describes these routes in his book:
SE face: D+, 800m, 45-55°
This is the most favourable and most often used route. The general inclination of the face is 45-55 degrees. It is purely packed snow climbing. (For details see ‘Routes’)
SW face: TD, 50-80°, 700m 10h
These are a bit more difficult and they vary as there is a serac barrier near the top.
North ridge: AD The easiest route, but it is not often climbed. Not even mentioned in Sharman.
E ridge: D?,40-50°, 1-2 days from glacier
Another possible but not often used climb, reportedly straightforward.
Day 1: Huaraz - Transfer drive about 3 Hours to village Cashapampa; meeting team and burros, trekking up to Llamacoral (3850 m)
Huaraz Privat transfer drive about 3 Hours to village Cashapampa via valley of Santa river crossing villages Caraz, Yugay and Caraz; Starting the Trekking Santa Cruz; meeting team and burros, trekking up to Llamacoral (3850 m).
3 Hours approx by bus
5 hours approx
Day 2: Llamacoral - Trekking to Artesonraju/Taullipampa Base Camp (4250 m)
Camp Llamacoral – Trekking to Arhuaycocha (4300 m). With views of the peaks Alpamayo, Artesnorahu and Taulliraju. Night at the Base Camp of Artesonraju (4350 m).
4 hours approx
Day 3: Taullipampa Base Camp - Climb to Artesonraju Moraine Camp (5000 m)
From here we again use the help of our high altitude porters as we move to Artesonraju Moraine Camp. Trekkers need to help carry their personal expedition equipment because the hilly nature of the moraine makes the climb more demanding. We rise through the shrubs and trees for 4-5 hours along the moraine crest, which is sometimes slippery and steep. Artesonraju Moraine Camp.
5 hours approx
Day 4: Artesonraju Moraine Camp - Summit Artesonraju (6025 m) - Descend to Moraine Camp (5000 m) or Taullipampa Base Camp (4250 m)
Summit day! The route we are climbing today is the North Ridge via the northeast spur. We climb steep slopes to the left of the ridge, avoiding the crevasses and seracs. The slope of the wall is from 40-60 degrees; the conditions can vary a lot from one year to the next. The ascent is approximately 8-9 hours. At the summit you will be rewarded with a magnificent view of the Cordillera Blanca! The neighboring peaks of Huascaran North and South, Huandoys, Santa Cruz, Caraz, and many more. After a brief rest and picture-taking at the summit, we return to Moraine Camp with some sections done via rappel. The descent will take about 3-4 hours. If participants are tired, we can stay another night at Moraine Camp. If everyone feels fine, we usually drop down to Artesonraju Base Camp.
5 hours approx
12 hours approx
Day 5: Taullipampa Base Camp - Trekking descent to the village of Cashapampa - Transfer to Huaraz
Today we rise early to begin our hike down through the Santa Cruz Valley to Cashapampa (about 6 hours.) In Cashapampa our minibus awaits to take us and our local expedition team to Huaraz. Overnight in the hotel.
6 hours approx
3 Hours approx
Included meals: B=breakfast; L=lunch; D=dinner
Services included in the prices:
- Peruvian qualified and experienced local guide/s
- All meals during the tour
- Camping tents (2 persons)
- Porters Nevado Artesonraju (2 pax 1 porter)
- Kitchen equipment
- Donkey driver and donkeys
- Transportation as tour schedule / Huaraz
- International flights to Lima / Peru round trip
- Transfer from the airport for bookings of individual flights with different times of arrival / departure
- Exit tax at the airport in Lima
- Travel accident and health insurance
- Luggage insurance and trip cancellation
- Meals in restaurants in Lima and Huaraz
- Personal expenses
- Acclimatization Tour
- Entrance fees to the Huascaran National Park
- Transfer from the Hotel to the airport and bus station
- Domestic flight Airline ticket LC-Peru
- Hotel Casa Andina 2 nights in Lima
- Hotel San Sebastián 4 nights in Huaraz
- Pick up at the airport in Lima to the Hotel
- Personal equipment (such as boots, ice ax, crampons, harness, sleeping bag, mat, Goretex, etc.)
What to Bring
What to Bring or take fo Day Hiking and Technical Equipment for Climbing Expedition
This equipment list is compiled to provide you with adequate help when choosing your equipment for a climb. Most items are required. Please consider each of them and make sure you understand the function and exclusive use for mountaineering, before substituting or removing items from this list. Please note that this list has been carefully annotated by the organizer. Remember that mountaineering, mountaineering or mountaineering is an extreme, risky sport, therefore everything related to it is of great attention.
These items should be on your hiking checklist:
Hiking backpack for hiking 30 to 40 liters
Light gloves for hiking or (Optional Mittens waterproof)
Medium weight socks
Sleeping bag (-10º to 15ºC)
Small daypack for one day hiking 20 liters
Weather-appropriate clothing (think moisture-wicking and layers)
Hiking boots or shoes
Medium weight parka with fibber fill or down
Rain poncho (or rain gear)
Fleece or Wool sweater and/or trousers
Cotton short-sleeved shirts or t-shirts
Water bottle for hiking or trekking
Strong waterproof duffel bag
Flashlight with spare batteries and bulb
Towel for personal hygiene each participantFirst-aid kit
Regular and long underwear
Knife or multi-tool
Light cap and wool hat
Sunglasses with UV certification, Sun block, lips
The rest of the list Essentials as appropriate for your hike
Grooming and personal hygiene kit
One Hiking Buff per person
Technical Equipment for High Altitude Expedition Mountains
3 Locking carabiners, we recommended per person
We recommend 2 ice screws for each client
1 Daisy Chain (Life Line) per each person
2 Ice axes (per person) technical, we recommended GRIVEL company
1 ATC descender (Rappel), this is very necessary for technical mountains
2 Cords for prusik, very important (Size Cord 6 mm x 10 m. long)
Gloves(Good gloves) for expeditions over 6000meters
Harness, we recommended GRIVEL company
Sleeping pad / Mattress, we recommend with air or inflatable mattress
Crampons, we recommended GRIVEL company
Walking sticks (optional), a pair per person, we recommended GRIVEL company
Down Jacket for expedition
Very important to have personal clothing such as pants and jacket with GOROTEX certification
First aid kit, for high mountains, because we as guides cannot medicate clients
Backpack Capacity 60 liters, it is better to have a bigger backpack to go comfortably to the high camps, because here you have to carry all your personal things
Gaiters or Leggings, now modern boots already have built-in (Incorporated), but better to have an extra pair
Dressing appropriately for the mountains can make the difference between a pleasant trip and a really uncomfortable one. Clothing must provide the right degree of temperature, perspiration and be well ventilated. Preferably cotton clothing should be avoided, as in humid conditions they absorb body heat.
In general, the weather conditions in in the Andes of South America can vary from day to day and even throughout the day. Therefore, clothing must be versatile.
Please do not hesitate to contact us with any questions you may have regarding the necessary equipment.
Prices & Dates
06 JUN 2023 / 10 JUN 2023
07 JUL 2023 / 12 JUL 2023
— JUL 2023 / — JUL 2023
— JUL 2023 / — AUG 2023
» Additional dates available upon request
» Rates may vary from July 26th to 31th for the national holidays
Prices (per person):
|1 PAX||2 PAX||4 PAX||6 PAX||8 PAX||10 PAX||12 PAX||14 PAX|
|3.500,00 USD||1.690,00 USD||1.550,00 USD||1.350,00 USD||1.250,00 USD||1.150,00 USD||1.050,00 USD||980,00 USD|
Deposit for reservations: * 1.000,00 USD (900,00 EUR) ✓ Full payment 40 days before. No refund if you cancel less than 30 days!
Trip-code: Number ►PE-000
Duration: 05 days
Participants: Minimal: 2 Maximal: 12
Members: We don’t have an open group to join – We can open a new group – Contact us!
Country / Location: Northern Peru
Mountain Guide: Juventino Albino Caldua
Other dates / additional info: Contact us!
3% early bird discount when booking 6 months prior to departure 2023
EZZ Single room supplement
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Juventino Albino Caldua
Expert guide certified by IVBV - UIAGM - IFMGA
Co-Founder, Peru Expeditions