Expedition Nevado Alpamayo (5947 m)
About Alpamayo Peak: The pyramid shaped Alpamayo is considered one of the most beautiful mountains in the world. The ascent toward the peak is very steep and the majority of it is a technical climb. This mountain should only be attempted by those who are well acclimatized and who have summited of other high peaks. From one side Alpamayo is an almost perfect pyramid, covered with enormous ice shelves. The other face, the trapezoidal southwest wall, is even more beautiful. All of the Cordillera Blanca mountain range is protected by Huascarán National Park, a paradise of snowcapped peaks. The park also includes the peaks of Huandoy and Huascarán (the highest mountain in Peru), as well as 663 glaciers, 269 lakes, some 42 rivers, as well as 33 archaeological sites.
About Nevado Alpamayo Routes: Alpamayo should not be underestimated. Lessthan half of the climbers coming to the BC make it to the top.
NB: After the July-2003-icefall the conditions in Alapmayo SW-face seem to have changed.
Ferrari: AD+, 10m 70°, 8 pitches 45°, 1 pitch 55°. 5-7h.
Frech Direct: D+ 50°-65°, 10 pitches. 6-8h Start near the lowermost part of the bergschrund (1½h). After 1/3 of the ascent follow the runnel leading to the top.
North Ridge: D The route of the first ascent. Nowadays unusual due to the higher objective risks. The ridge can be gained from Laguna Jancarurish or by traversing from the col.
Descent: Rappel down the way you came respectively the Ferrari Route (snow stakes most times in situ).
Day 1: Huaraz - Transfer drive about 3 Hours to village Cashapampa; meeting team and burros, trekking up to Llamacoral (3850 m)
Huaraz Privat transfer drive about 3 Hours to village Cashapampa via valley of Santa river crossing villages Caraz, Yugay and Caraz; Starting the Trekking Santa Cruz; meeting team and burros, trekking up to Llamacoral (3850 m).
3 Hours approx by bus
5 hours approx
Day 2: Llamacoral - Trekking to Base Camp of Alpamayo (4350 m)
Camp Llamacoral – Trekking to Arhuaycocha (4300 m). With views of the peaks Alpamayo, Artesnorahu and Taulliraju. Night at the Base Camp of Alpamayo (4350 m).
5 hours approx
Day 3: Alpamayo Base Camp - Ascend to Alpamayo Moraine Camp (4900 m)
Today we have a good breakfast and prepare the expedition equipment for Alpamayo, from here we begin using a local team (porters, cook and local guides), who will help us carry everything. We set out for the moraine after a small lunch in Base Camp. The trail takes us across the steep moraine at the tongue of the glacier to Moraine Camp (4,900 m).
4 hours approx
Day 4: Moraine Camp - Ascend to Alpamayo High Camp (5300 m)
Alpamayo High Camp is on the steep glacier at the base of Alpamayo and Quitaraju. Due to the constant shrinkage of the glacier, every year we find a different situation along this section. We find magnificent views from High Camp the summit looks close enough to touch! We have dinner a bit early because we must rise very early, for the long day that awaits us tomorrow. High Camp (5,300 m).
2 hours approx
4 hours approx
Day 5: High Camp - Ascend to Alpamayo Summit (5947 m) - High Camp (5300 m) or Descend to Base Camp (4300 m)
Summit day! One possible route is the French route, a 60 to 80 degree wall of ice which narrows toward the top. . Above the wall, you need to conquer a few meters to the highest point of the narrow ridge. At the summit, you will be rewarded with a magnificent view of the Cordillera Blanca! The neighboring peak of Quitaraju (6,036 m) is almost within striking distance; and to the southwest you can see the remarkable summit of Huascarán (6,768 m.) After a brief rest and photos at the summit, we return quickly to High Camp via a rappel down the route we came up. In good weather, the climb to the summit and return to base camp can be done before noon. The ascent takes 5-6 hours, while the descent takes about 2-3 hours. If participants are tired, we can stay one more night in High Camp. If everyone feels fine, which is usual, we descend to Alpamayo Base Camp (4,300 m).
4 hours approx
12 hours approx
Day 6:Base Camp - Descent through Quebrada Santa Cruz - Cashapampa - Transfer to Huaraz
Today we rise early in order to begin our hike, descending through the Santa Cruz valley to Cashapampa (about 6 hours.) In this village our minibus awaits to take us and the local expedition team back to Huaraz. Lodging at the hotel.
3 Hours approx by bus
6 hours approx
Included meals: B=breakfast; L=lunch; D=dinner
Services included in the prices:
- Peruvian qualified and experienced local guide/s
- All meals during the tour
- Camping tents (2 persons)
- Porters Nevado Alpamayo (2 pax 1 porter)
- Kitchen equipment
- Donkey driver and donkeys
- Transportation as tour schedule / Huaraz
- International flights to Lima / Peru round trip
- Transfer from the airport for bookings of individual flights with different times of arrival / departure
- Exit tax at the airport in Lima
- Travel accident and health insurance
- Luggage insurance and trip cancellation
- Meals in restaurants in Lima and Huaraz
- Personal expenses
- Acclimatization Tour
- Entrance fees to the Huascaran National Park
- Transfer from the Hotel to the airport and bus station
- Domestic flight Airline ticket LC-Peru
- Hotel Casa Andina 2 nights in Lima
- Hotel San Sebastián 4 nights in Huaraz
- Pick up at the airport in Lima to the Hotel
- Personal equipment (such as boots, ice ax, crampons, harness, sleeping bag, mat, Goretex, etc.)
What to Bring
What to Bring or take fo Day Hiking and Technical Equipment for Climbing Expedition
This equipment list is compiled to provide you with adequate help when choosing your equipment for a climb. Most items are required. Please consider each of them and make sure you understand the function and exclusive use for mountaineering, before substituting or removing items from this list. Please note that this list has been carefully annotated by the organizer. Remember that mountaineering, mountaineering or mountaineering is an extreme, risky sport, therefore everything related to it is of great attention.
These items should be on your hiking checklist:
Hiking backpack for hiking 30 to 40 liters
Light gloves for hiking or (Optional Mittens waterproof)
Medium weight socks
Sleeping bag (-10º to 15ºC)
Small daypack for one day hiking 20 liters
Weather-appropriate clothing (think moisture-wicking and layers)
Hiking boots or shoes
Medium weight parka with fibber fill or down
Rain poncho (or rain gear)
Fleece or Wool sweater and/or trousers
Cotton short-sleeved shirts or t-shirts
Water bottle for hiking or trekking
Strong waterproof duffel bag
Flashlight with spare batteries and bulb
Towel for personal hygiene each participantFirst-aid kit
Regular and long underwear
Knife or multi-tool
Light cap and wool hat
Sunglasses with UV certification, Sun block, lips
The rest of the list Essentials as appropriate for your hike
Grooming and personal hygiene kit
One Hiking Buff per person
Technical Equipment for High Altitude Expedition Mountains
3 Locking carabiners, we recommended per person
We recommend 2 ice screws for each client
1 Daisy Chain (Life Line) per each person
2 Ice axes (per person) technical, we recommended GRIVEL company
1 ATC descender (Rappel), this is very necessary for technical mountains
2 Cords for prusik, very important (Size Cord 6 mm x 10 m. long)
Gloves(Good gloves) for expeditions over 6000meters
Harness, we recommended GRIVEL company
Sleeping pad / Mattress, we recommend with air or inflatable mattress
Crampons, we recommended GRIVEL company
Walking sticks (optional), a pair per person, we recommended GRIVEL company
Down Jacket for expedition
Very important to have personal clothing such as pants and jacket with GOROTEX certification
First aid kit, for high mountains, because we as guides cannot medicate clients
Backpack Capacity 60 liters, it is better to have a bigger backpack to go comfortably to the high camps, because here you have to carry all your personal things
Gaiters or Leggings, now modern boots already have built-in (Incorporated), but better to have an extra pair
Dressing appropriately for the mountains can make the difference between a pleasant trip and a really uncomfortable one. Clothing must provide the right degree of temperature, perspiration and be well ventilated. Preferably cotton clothing should be avoided, as in humid conditions they absorb body heat.
In general, the weather conditions in in the Andes of South America can vary from day to day and even throughout the day. Therefore, clothing must be versatile.
Please do not hesitate to contact us with any questions you may have regarding the necessary equipment.
Prices & Dates
06 APR 2023 / 11 APR 2023
07 JUL 2023 / 12 JUL 2023
— JUL 2023 / — JUL 2023
— JUL 2023 / — AUG 2023
» Additional dates available upon request
» Rates may vary from July 26th to 31th for the national holidays
Prices (per person):
|1 PAX||2 PAX||4 PAX||6 PAX||8 PAX||10 PAX||12 PAX||14 PAX|
|3.300,00 USD||1.650,00 USD||1.550,00 USD||1.550,00 USD||1.450,00 USD||1.400,00 USD||1.350,00 USD||1.300,00 USD|
Deposit for reservations: * 1.000,00 USD (900,00 EUR) ✓ Full payment 40 days before. No refund if you cancel less than 30 days!
Trip-code: Number ►PE-000
Duration: 06 days
Participants: Minimal: 2 Maximal: 12
Members: We don’t have an open group to join – We can open a new group – Contact us!
Country / Location: Northern Peru
Mountain Guide: Juventino Albino Caldua
Other dates / additional info: Contact us!
3% early bird discount when booking 6 months prior to departure 2023
EZZ Single room supplement
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Juventino Albino Caldua
Expert guide certified by IVBV - UIAGM - IFMGA
Co-Founder, Peru Expeditions