Expedition Nevado Tocllaraju (6034 m)
About Quebrada Ishinca: Mountain views – Three Peruvian Peaks – Urus (5495 m), Ishinca (5530 m) and Tocllaraju (6034 m). Climb of Ishinca, with a journey through the Ishinca Valley, is a popular destination for climbers who want to get to 5 or 6000 meter peak, but because of the scenic beauty, this is a great climb even if you don’t reach the peak. On this hike we have a fascinating view of the massif that includes Ishinca, Urus, Tocllaraju, Ranrapalco, the Palcarajus and much more.
The super-classic Tocllaraju NW ridge and the most difficult Ranrapalca Normal route belong to another climbing range and complete the possibilities.
Obvious line starting from the base of the west face. Depending on the season it might not be possible to attempt it; the later the season the worst. It is recomended a very early start to avoid a very soupy-snow ascent. From camp 1 Moraine Camp (4950 m) traverse rightwards under the West Face and climb a line on the South end wich skirts the upper serac barrier on the right to join the south ridge 100m from the summit, 5-7 h from camp. And climb the snow mushroom. Descent abseiling the snow mushroom summit and descent the NW ridge.
- 4 Days/3 Nights
- May to September
- Demanding
Condition
Travel Program
Day 1: Huaraz - Transfer to Pashpa (3400 m) - Trekking to Ishinca Base Camp (4250 m)
Today we leave the city of Huaraz toward the north and down to the Callejón de Huaylas (also known as the Santa Valley) to the village of Paltay. We continue on an unpaved route to Pashpa (3400 m), on to the small Lake Cochapampa. Here is where our local team of mule drivers waits for us. It is a 90 minute trip from Huaraz to Paltay. We then have a tranquil climb through the Ishinca Valley to our camp, near Refugio Don Bosco. 4-5 hours.
Overnight
Camping
Driving
3 Hours approx by car.
Hiking
4 hours approx
Climbing
3 hours approx
Meals
-/L/D
Day 2: Ishinca Base Camp - Tocllaraju Moraine Camp (4950 m)
About mid day, after lunch, we begin the ascent via a steep moraine to the edge of the glacier. From this point we can see the Tocllaraju (6034 m), very near. We’ll set up our high camp on the moraine. Hiking time: 4-5 hours.
Overnight
Camping
Hiking
4 hours approx
Meals
B/L/D
Day 3: Moraine Camp - Ascend Tocllaraju Peak (6034 m) - Ishinca Base Camp
Summit Day! Summit day! After a very early breakfast, we proceed over the glacier to the northwest ridge of the peak. Because the glacier changes from year to year, the technical ice climbing is also different from year to year. We might find small walls of ice, up to 60 degree surfaces. The variant direct route is the west face 60° 70° maximal 75° degree – It is demanding / difficult. The summit ridge is secured with fixed ropes. From the 6000+ meter peak, the view opens on the entire Cordillera Blanca. Descend to Base Camp. At noon we return to Moraine Camp and continue to Base Camp. Some 10-12 hours today.
Overnight
Camping
Hiking
4 hours approx
Climbing
12 hours approx
Meals
B/L/D
Day 4: Ishinca Base Camp - Trekking to Cochapampa Lake (3400 m) - Village of Pashpa - Transfer to Huaraz
After breakfast we leave at 8am for an easy return walk to Pashpa. Today burros will be carrying our camping and personal equipment. We’ll return via a hillside covered with queñuales trees (Polylepis spp.), native to the high Andes. Here our private transport will be waiting. It’s likely we’ll arrive early and have lunch in Huaraz. Lodging in the hotel.
Overnight
Hotel
Hiking
5 hours approx
Driving
2 Hours approx.
Meals
B/L/-
Included meals: B=breakfast; L=lunch; D=dinner
What's Included
Services included in the prices:
- Peruvian qualified and experienced local guide/s
- All meals during the tour
- Camping tents (2 persons)
- Porters Nevado Tocllaraju (2 pax 1 porter)
- Kitchen equipment
- Cooks
- Donkey driver and donkeys
- Transportation as tour schedule / Huaraz
Not included:
- International flights to Lima / Peru round trip
- Transfer from the airport for bookings of individual flights with different times of arrival / departure
- Exit tax at the airport in Lima
- Travel accident and health insurance
- Luggage insurance and trip cancellation
- Meals in restaurants in Lima and Huaraz
- Personal expenses
- Acclimatization Tour
- Entrance fees to the Huascaran National Park
- Transfer from the Hotel to the airport and bus station
- Domestic flight Airline ticket LC-Peru
- Hotel Casa Andina 2 nights in Lima
- Hotel San Sebastián 4 nights in Huaraz
- Pick up at the airport in Lima to the Hotel
- Personal equipment (such as boots, ice ax, crampons, harness, sleeping bag, mat, Goretex, etc.)
- Tips
What to Bring
What to Bring or take fo Day Hiking and Technical Equipment for Climbing Expedition
This equipment list is compiled to provide you with adequate help when choosing your equipment for a climb. Most items are required. Please consider each of them and make sure you understand the function and exclusive use for mountaineering, before substituting or removing items from this list. Please note that this list has been carefully annotated by the organizer. Remember that mountaineering, mountaineering or mountaineering is an extreme, risky sport, therefore everything related to it is of great attention.
These items should be on your hiking checklist:
Hiking backpack for hiking 30 to 40 liters
Light gloves for hiking or (Optional Mittens waterproof)
Medium weight socks
Sleeping bag (-10º to 15ºC)
Small daypack for one day hiking 20 liters
Weather-appropriate clothing (think moisture-wicking and layers)
Hiking boots or shoes
Medium weight parka with fibber fill or down
Rain poncho (or rain gear)
Long-sleeved shirts
Fleece or Wool sweater and/or trousers
Lightweight pants
Cotton short-sleeved shirts or t-shirts
Water bottle for hiking or trekking
Strong waterproof duffel bag
Flashlight with spare batteries and bulb
Towel for personal hygiene each participantFirst-aid kit
Regular and long underwear
Knife or multi-tool
Light cap and wool hat
Sunglasses with UV certification, Sun block, lips
The rest of the list Essentials as appropriate for your hike
Grooming and personal hygiene kit
One Hiking Buff per person
Technical Equipment for High Altitude Expedition Mountains
3 Locking carabiners, we recommended per person
We recommend 2 ice screws for each client
1 Daisy Chain (Life Line) per each person
2 Ice axes (per person) technical, we recommended GRIVEL company
1 ATC descender (Rappel), this is very necessary for technical mountains
2 Cords for prusik, very important (Size Cord 6 mm x 10 m. long)
Gloves(Good gloves) for expeditions over 6000meters
Harness, we recommended GRIVEL company
Sleeping pad / Mattress, we recommend with air or inflatable mattress
Crampons, we recommended GRIVEL company
Walking sticks (optional), a pair per person, we recommended GRIVEL company
Down Jacket for expedition
Very important to have personal clothing such as pants and jacket with GOROTEX certification
First aid kit, for high mountains, because we as guides cannot medicate clients
Backpack Capacity 60 liters, it is better to have a bigger backpack to go comfortably to the high camps, because here you have to carry all your personal things
Gaiters or Leggings, now modern boots already have built-in (Incorporated), but better to have an extra pair
Dressing appropriately for the mountains can make the difference between a pleasant trip and a really uncomfortable one. Clothing must provide the right degree of temperature, perspiration and be well ventilated. Preferably cotton clothing should be avoided, as in humid conditions they absorb body heat.
In general, the weather conditions in in the Andes of South America can vary from day to day and even throughout the day. Therefore, clothing must be versatile.
Please do not hesitate to contact us with any questions you may have regarding the necessary equipment.
Prices & Dates
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» Additional dates available upon request
» Rates may vary from July 26th to 31th for the national holidays
Prices (per person):
| 1 PAX | 2 PAX | 4 PAX | 6 PAX | 8 PAX | 10 PAX | 12 PAX | 14 PAX |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1.500,00 USD | 850,00 USD | 800,00 USD | 750,00 USD | 650,00 USD | 600,00 USD | 580,00 USD | 550,00 USD |
Deposit for reservations: * 1.000,00 USD (900,00 EUR) ✓ Full payment 40 days before. No refund if you cancel less than 30 days!
Places: 
*Available
Trip-code: Number ►PE-000
Duration: 04 days
Participants: Minimal: 2 Maximal: 10
Members: We don’t have an open group to join – We can open a new group – Contact us!
Country / Location: Northern Peru
Mountain Guide: Octavio Salazar Obregon
Other dates / additional info: Contact us!
3% early bird discount when booking 6 months prior to departure 2023
Legend Booking-information:
EZZ Single room supplement
🟢 On this trip, places are still available.
🟡 On this trip, only a few places left.
🔴 This trip is sold out / closed.
Juventino Albino Caldua
Expert guide certified by IVBV - UIAGM - IFMGA
Co-Founder, Peru Expeditions
- WhatsApp: +51 943 081 066
- E-Mail: [email protected]
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