Expedition Nevado Quitaraju (6040 m)

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About Nevado Quitaraju: Quitaraju is situated south-eastwards of Alpamayo. Obviously Quitaraju does not get half as much attention as Alpamayo does, there are even more parties climbing the Alpamayo, but less parties climbing has the Nevado Quitaraju. It is a really nice mountain with great views of it’s south face, the Alpamayo, Artesonrajo, Huascaran(s), Chopicalqui. The easiest route is W ridge, graded AD, but very very long, sustained and steep in places. North face is really nice, being graded D, 700m, inclination of about 55° degrees. Different variants have different grades, so a tougher climber could find some 60-70 degree climbing going some 50m left or right from the arete in upper part of the face.

Quitaraju/Kitarahu (Ancash Quechua kita dam,Quechua rahu snow, ice, mountain with snow, hispanicized spellings Quitarajo, Quitaraju, also Kitaraju) is a mountain in the Cordillera Blanca in the Andes of Peru, about 6,040 metres (19,816 ft) high. It is situated in the Ancash Region, Huaylas Province, Santa Cruz District. Kitarahu lies north of the Yuraqmayu valley (Santa Cruz gorge) and the lakes named Ichikcocha, Hatuncocha, between Pukaraju in the west and Alpamayo (Allpamayu) in the northeast.

The name of the mountain Kitarahu correlates with the name of the nearby lake Kitaqucha (Quechua for storage lake, hispanicized Quitacocha).

Difficulty Condition

Travel Program

Huaraz Privat transfer drive about 3 Hours to village Cashapampa via valley of Santa river crossing villages Caraz, Yugay and Caraz; Starting the Trekking Santa Cruz; meeting team and burros, trekking up to Llamacoral (3850 m).

Overnight
Camping
Driving
3 Hours approx by bus
Hiking
5 hours approx
Meals
B/L/D

Camp Llamacoral – Trekking to Arhuaycocha (4300 m). With views of the peaks Alpamayo, Artesnorahu and Taulliraju. Night at the Base Camp of Alpamayo (4350 m).

Overnight
Camping
Hiking
5 hours approx
Meals
B/L/D

Today we have a good breakfast and prepare the expedition equipment for Alpamayo, from here we begin using a local team (porters, cook and local guides), who will help us carry everything. We set out for the moraine after a small lunch in Base Camp. The trail takes us across the steep moraine at the tongue of the glacier to Moraine Camp (4,900 m).

Overnight
Camping
Hiking
4 hours approx
Meals
B/L/D

Alpamayo High Camp is on the steep glacier at the base of Alpamayo and Quitaraju. Due to the constant shrinkage of the glacier, every year we find a different situation along this section. We find magnificent views from High Camp the summit looks close enough to touch! We have dinner a bit early because we must rise very early, for the long day that awaits us tomorrow. High Camp (5300 m).

Overnight
Camping
Hiking
2 hours approx
Climbing
4 hours approx
Meals
B/L/D

Summit day! One possible route is the French route, a 60 to 70 degree wall of ice which narrows toward the top. . Above the wall, you need to conquer a few meters to the highest point of the narrow ridge. At the summit, you will be rewarded with a magnificent view of the Cordillera Blanca! The neighboring peak of Alpamayo (5,947 m) is almost within striking distance; and to the southwest you can see the remarkable summit of Huascarán (6,768 m.) After a brief rest and photos at the summit, we return quickly to High Camp via a rappel down the route we came up. In good weather, the climb to the summit and return to base camp can be done before noon. The ascent takes 6-7 hours, while the descent takes about 2-3 hours. If participants are tired, we can stay one more night in High Camp. If everyone feels fine, which is usual, we descend to Quitaraju/Alpamayo Base Camp (4,300 m).

Overnight
Camping
Hiking
5 hours approx
Climbing
12 hours approx
Meals
B/L/D

Today we rise early in order to begin our hike, descending through the Santa Cruz valley to Cashapampa (about 6 hours.) In this village our minibus awaits to take us and the local expedition team back to Huaraz. Lodging at the hotel.

Overnight
Hotel
Hiking
6 hours approx
Driving
3 Hours approx
Meals
B/L/-

Included meals: B=breakfast; L=lunch; D=dinner

What's Included

Services included in the prices:

  • Peruvian qualified and experienced local guide/s
  • All meals during the tour
  • Camping tents (2 persons)
  • Porters Nevado Quitaraju (2 pax 1 porter)
  • Kitchen equipment
  • Cook
  • Donkey driver and donkeys
  • Transportation as tour schedule / Huaraz

Not included:

  • International flights to Lima / Peru round trip
  • Transfer from the airport for bookings of individual flights with different times of arrival / departure
  • Exit tax at the airport in Lima
  • Travel accident and health insurance
  • Luggage insurance and trip cancellation
  • Meals in restaurants in Lima and Huaraz
  • Personal expenses
  • Acclimatization Tour
  • Entrance fees to the Huascaran National Park
  • Transfer from the Hotel to the airport and bus station
  • Domestic flight Airline ticket LC-Peru
  • Hotel Casa Andina 2 nights in Lima
  • Hotel San Sebastián 4 nights in Huaraz
  • Pick up at the airport in Lima to the Hotel
  • Personal equipment (such as boots, ice ax, crampons, harness, sleeping bag, mat, Goretex, etc.)
  • Tips

What to Bring

What to Bring or take fo Day Hiking and Technical Equipment for Climbing Expedition

This equipment list is compiled to provide you with adequate help when choosing your equipment for a climb. Most items are required. Please consider each of them and make sure you understand the function and exclusive use for mountaineering, before substituting or removing items from this list. Please note that this list has been carefully annotated by the organizer. Remember that mountaineering, mountaineering or mountaineering is an extreme, risky sport, therefore everything related to it is of great attention.

These items should be on your hiking checklist:

Hiking backpack for hiking 30 to 40 liters

Light gloves for hiking or (Optional Mittens waterproof)

Medium weight socks

Sleeping bag (-10º to 15ºC)

Small daypack for one day hiking 20 liters

Weather-appropriate clothing (think moisture-wicking and layers)

Hiking boots or shoes

Medium weight parka with fibber fill or down

Rain poncho (or rain gear)

Long-sleeved shirts

Fleece or Wool sweater and/or trousers

Lightweight pants

Cotton short-sleeved shirts or t-shirts

Water bottle for hiking or trekking

Strong waterproof duffel bag

Flashlight with spare batteries and bulb

Towel for personal hygiene each participantFirst-aid kit

Regular and long underwear

Knife or multi-tool

Light cap and wool hat

Sunglasses with UV certification, Sun block, lips

The rest of the list Essentials as appropriate for your hike

Grooming and personal hygiene kit

One Hiking Buff per person

Technical Equipment for High Altitude Expedition Mountains

3 Locking carabiners, we recommended per person

We recommend 2 ice screws for each client

1 Daisy Chain (Life Line) per each person

2 Ice axes (per person) technical, we recommended GRIVEL company

1 ATC descender (Rappel), this is very necessary for technical mountains

2 Cords for prusik, very important (Size Cord 6 mm x 10 m. long)

Gloves(Good gloves) for expeditions over 6000meters

Harness, we recommended GRIVEL company

Sleeping pad / Mattress, we recommend with air or inflatable mattress

Crampons, we recommended GRIVEL company

Walking sticks (optional), a pair per person, we recommended GRIVEL company

Down Jacket for expedition

Very important to have personal clothing such as pants and jacket with GOROTEX certification

First aid kit, for high mountains, because we as guides cannot medicate clients

Backpack Capacity 60 liters, it is better to have a bigger backpack to go comfortably to the high camps, because here you have to carry all your personal things

Gaiters or Leggings, now modern boots already have built-in (Incorporated), but better to have an extra pair

Dressing appropriately for the mountains can make the difference between a pleasant trip and a really uncomfortable one. Clothing must provide the right degree of temperature, perspiration and be well ventilated. Preferably cotton clothing should be avoided, as in humid conditions they absorb body heat.

In general, the weather conditions in in the Andes of South America can vary from day to day and even throughout the day. Therefore, clothing must be versatile.

Please do not hesitate to contact us with any questions you may have regarding the necessary equipment.

Prices & Dates

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06 JUN 2023 / 11 JUN 2023

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07 JUL 2023 / 12 JUL 2023

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— JUL 2023 / — AUG 2023

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TRAVEL STATUS

— JUL 2023 / — AUG 2023

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» Additional dates available upon request
» Rates may vary from July 26th to 31th for the national holidays

Prices (per person):

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Deposit for reservations: * 1.000,00 USD (900,00 EUR) ✓ Full payment 40 days before. No refund if you cancel less than 30 days!
Places: 🟢 *Available
Trip-code: Number ►PE-000
Duration: 06 days
Participants: Minimal: 2 Maximal: 12
Members: We don’t have an open group to join – We can open a new group – Contact us!
Country / Location: Northern Peru
Mountain Guide: Juventino Albino Caldua
Other dates / additional info: Contact us!

3% early bird discount when booking 6 months prior to departure 2023

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Juventino Albino Caldua

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Co-Founder, Peru Expeditions

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