Expedition Nevado Chopicalqui (6354 m)

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About Chopicalqui Peak: Chopicalqui is the third peak of the Huascarán Massif, also located in the Cordillera Blanca, between the two peaks of Huascarán and Contrahierbas. With an elevation of 6,345 meters, it is the fifth highest mountain in the department (administrative region) of Ancash, and the fourth highest in the Cordillera Blanca. It is a demanding mountain with some technical climbing and this requires previous climbing experience.

Ascent of Chopicalqui (20,847 ft.)/(6354 m) via the classic Southwest Ridge, On the summit of Chopicalqui many consider this to be the best view in the Cordillera Blanca.

Chopicalqui is appropriate for people with significant experience and alpine skills – managing rope and crampons on snow and ice walls and with good safety technique. In some years there can be steep sections of ice climbing that require the use of two ice axes and previous experience in their use is recommended.

Difficulty Condition

Travel Program

After breakfast we begin to prepare our mountaineering equipment; Huaraz (3100 m) – Transfer via Quebrada Llanganuco – Trekking to Chopicalqui Base Camp (4350 m) – Continuing Ascend to Chopicalqui Moraine Camp (4900 m), with our private transport which will take 3-3.5 hours and the climb to Moraine Camp of Chopicalqui trekking up which will take 5 hours.

Overnight
Camping 
Driving
3 Hours approx by bus
Hiking
 6 hours approx
Meals
B/L/D

First we climb over the rocky moraine to the glacier. Then over the different slopes of the glacier, crossing various crevasses to camp on the glacier at High Camp. 5-6 hours.

Overnight
Camping 
Hiking
 5 hours approx
Climbing
 5 hours approx
Meals
B/L/D

Chopicalqui is a demanding mountain, and the culmination of our expedition. Climb to the summit. There are seracs and crevasses to cross and sections of technical walls to climb. On the final section we have some 8-10 meters of 75º -80º slope. Descend to High Camp or Moraine Camp and continue to Base Camp. 10-13 hours today.

Overnight
Camping 
Hiking
 4 hours approx
Climbing
 10 hours approx
Meals
B/L/D

Today we prepare to leave early, from Moraine Camp or Base Camp to the highway, where we find our private bus. Now is the time to say goodbye to the Llanganuo Valley. Lodging at the hotel in Huaraz.

Overnight
Hotel 
Hiking
 3 hours approx
Driving
3 Hours approx
Meals
B/L/-

Included meals: B=breakfast; L=lunch; D=dinner

What's Included

Services included in the prices:

  • Peruvian qualified and experienced local guide/s
  • All meals during the tour
  • Camping tents (2 persons)
  • Porters Chopicalqui (2 pax 1 porter)
  • 1 Cook and helper (from 6 pax )
  • Kitchen equipment
  • Transportation as tour schedule / Huaraz

Not included:

  • International flights to Lima / Peru round trip
  • Transfer from the airport for bookings of individual flights with different times of arrival / departure
  • Exit tax at the airport in Lima
  • Travel accident and health insurance
  • Luggage insurance and trip cancellation
  • Meals in restaurants in Lima and Huaraz
  • Personal expenses
  • Acclimatization Tour
  • Entrance fees to the Huascaran National Park
  • Donkey driver and donkeys
  • Transfer from the Hotel to the airport and bus station
  • Domestic flight Airline ticket LC-Peru
  • Hotel Casa Andina 2 nights in Lima
  • Hotel San Sebastián 4 nights in Huaraz
  • Pick up at the airport in Lima to the Hotel
  • Personal equipment (such as boots, ice ax, crampons, harness, sleeping bag, mat, Goretex, etc.)
  • Tips

What to Bring

What to Bring or take fo Day Hiking and Technical Equipment for Climbing Expedition

This equipment list is compiled to provide you with adequate help when choosing your equipment for a climb. Most items are required. Please consider each of them and make sure you understand the function and exclusive use for mountaineering, before substituting or removing items from this list. Please note that this list has been carefully annotated by the organizer. Remember that mountaineering, mountaineering or mountaineering is an extreme, risky sport, therefore everything related to it is of great attention.

These items should be on your hiking checklist:

Hiking backpack for hiking 30 to 40 liters

Light gloves for hiking or (Optional Mittens waterproof)

Medium weight socks

Sleeping bag (-10º to 15ºC)

Small daypack for one day hiking 20 liters

Weather-appropriate clothing (think moisture-wicking and layers)

Hiking boots or shoes

Medium weight parka with fibber fill or down

Rain poncho (or rain gear)

Long-sleeved shirts

Fleece or Wool sweater and/or trousers

Lightweight pants

Cotton short-sleeved shirts or t-shirts

Water bottle for hiking or trekking

Strong waterproof duffel bag

Flashlight with spare batteries and bulb

Towel for personal hygiene each participantFirst-aid kit

Regular and long underwear

Knife or multi-tool

Light cap and wool hat

Sunglasses with UV certification, Sun block, lips

The rest of the list Essentials as appropriate for your hike

Grooming and personal hygiene kit

One Hiking Buff per person

Technical Equipment for High Altitude Expedition Mountains

3 Locking carabiners, we recommended per person

We recommend 2 ice screws for each client

1 Daisy Chain (Life Line) per each person

2 Ice axes (per person) technical, we recommended GRIVEL company

1 ATC descender (Rappel), this is very necessary for technical mountains

2 Cords for prusik, very important (Size Cord 6 mm x 10 m. long)

Gloves(Good gloves) for expeditions over 6000meters

Harness, we recommended GRIVEL company

Sleeping pad / Mattress, we recommend with air or inflatable mattress

Crampons, we recommended GRIVEL company

Walking sticks (optional), a pair per person, we recommended GRIVEL company

Down Jacket for expedition

Very important to have personal clothing such as pants and jacket with GOROTEX certification

First aid kit, for high mountains, because we as guides cannot medicate clients

Backpack Capacity 60 liters, it is better to have a bigger backpack to go comfortably to the high camps, because here you have to carry all your personal things

Gaiters or Leggings, now modern boots already have built-in (Incorporated), but better to have an extra pair

Dressing appropriately for the mountains can make the difference between a pleasant trip and a really uncomfortable one. Clothing must provide the right degree of temperature, perspiration and be well ventilated. Preferably cotton clothing should be avoided, as in humid conditions they absorb body heat.

In general, the weather conditions in in the Andes of South America can vary from day to day and even throughout the day. Therefore, clothing must be versatile.

Please do not hesitate to contact us with any questions you may have regarding the necessary equipment.

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» Additional dates available upon request
» Rates may vary from July 26th to 31th for the national holidays

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Deposit for reservations: * 850,00 USD (760,00 EUR) ✓ Full payment 40 days before. No refund if you cancel less than 30 days!
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Trip-code: Number ►PE-210
Duration: 04 days
Participants: Minimal: 2 Maximal: 12
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Country / Location: Northern Peru
Mountain Guide: Octavio Salazar Obregon
Other dates / additional info: Contact us!

3% early bird discount when booking 6 months prior to departure 2023

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Juventino Albino Caldua

Expert guide certified by IVBV - UIAGM - IFMGA
Co-Founder, Peru Expeditions

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