Expedition Huascaran South (6768 m)
About Huascarán Peak: Huascarán is the highest peak in Peru. This mountain has two summits: Huascarán North (6655 m) and the main summit, Huascarán South (6768 m). Many climbers dream of reaching the high summit of 6768 meters. Huascarán offers multiple routes to arrive at the highest point in Peru. Technically, the climb is not difficult, nevertheless, due to its elevation and risk of avalanches, it is a serious endeavor.
Observation: Huascarán South Summit (6,768 m): The conditions on all mountains change every year; Huascarán is no exception. The glacier between the first and second camps is receding, and as such, some years it is a challenge to get from high camp 1 to high camp 2 due to the crevasses and the large avalanches that may fall in the primary chute. Nevertheless, an ascent of Huascarán is, without a doubt, one of the highlights of mountaineering in the Andes.
- 6 Days/5 Nights
- June to August
- Difficult - Demanding
Condition Travel Program
Day 1: Huaraz - Transfer to Musho (3000 m) - Trekking to Huascarán Base Camp (4250 m)
Now the last and best mountain – the highest mountain in Peru, Huascarán. Transfer from Huaraz through the Callejón de Huaylas, the central section of the valley formed by the Santa River between the Cordillera Blanca and the Cordillera Negra. We arrive at the village of Musho, and load our luggage onto burros. From Musho it is a 4-5 hour hike to Huascarán Base Camp (4,250 m), from which we have a beautiful view of the Cordillera Negra.
Overnight
Camping
Driving
3 Hours approx by bus
Hiking
5 hours approx
Meals
B/L/D
Day 2: Huascarán Base Camp - Ascend to High Camp I (5350 m)
Today we‘ll climb to High Camp 1. Porters will help us carry our camping equipment and food . From this point, the southern and northern peaks of Huascarán seem close enough to touch. Dinner and lodging in tents on the glacier. At this altitude, the temperature at night falls to as low as -13°C.
Overnight
Camping
Hiking
3 hours approx
Climbing
3 hours approx
Meals
B/L/D
Day 3: High Camp I - Ascend to High Camp II (Garganta, 6000 m)
Very early this morning we continue to climb over the steep section of the glacier, with crevasses, avalanches in the chutes, and an area of icefall with 50° faces requiring ice climbing. We expect to find changes to the rugged glacier because every year with the retreat of the glacier, the conditions change with regard to crevasses, bridges or new avalanches. Our porters accompany us to Camp 2 in La Garganta (“The Throat“), the saddle between the North Summit (6655 m) and the South Summit (6768 m.) We sleep in tents on the glacier.
Overnight
Camping
Hiking
3 hours approx
Climbing
3 hours approx
Meals
B/L/D
Day 4: High Camp II (Garganta, 6000 m) - Ascend to Huascarán Summit (6768 m) - Trekking descent to Base Camp
Summit day! We begin our ascent very early this morning to the South Summit (6768 m) The trail takes us abruptly up, continues through many crevasses and avalanche zones until we arrive at the flat summit ridge. From here you can see all of the Cordillera Blanca, including Alpamayo to the north. The unforgettable view from the summit makes us forget all our effort to get here! After enjoying the summit and taking photos, we begin our descent back to High Camp II. If everyone still feels fine, we can descend to Base Camp (weather permitting) or stay in High Camp II. Rest one hour and begin to go down to Base Camp. Dinner and lodging in Base Camp. Time required: the ascent: 6-7 hours; descent to High Camp II: 3-4 hours; descent from High Camp II to Base Camp: 3-4 hours.
Overnight
Camping
Hiking
5 hours approx
Climbing
12 hours approx
Meals
B/L/D
Day 5: Reserve day in case of bad weather or to sleep in High Camp II (Garganta, 6000 m)
Extra day in case of bad weather, or to remain in High Camp II.
Overnight
Camping
Hiking
5 hours approx
Climbing
12 hours approx
Meals
B/L/D
Day 6: Base Camp - Trekking to Musho (3000 m) - Transfer to Huaraz
Our last expedition day. Early in the morning the mule/burro drivers arrive, and after the luggage is loaded, we descend to the village of Musho, a walk of 3-4 hours. From here our private transport will be waiting to take us to Huaraz, our final destination. Here we say goodbye to our local team; have a complimentary dinner at the home of Juventino Albino Caldua – a special dish called Pachamanca. Lodging in the hotel.
Overnight
Hotel
Hiking
5 hours approx
Driving
3 Hours approx
Meals
B/L/-
Included meals: B=breakfast; L=lunch; D=dinner
What's Included
Services included in the prices:
- Peruvian qualified and experienced local guide/s
- All meals during the tour
- Camping tents (2 persons)
- Porters Nevado Huascaran (2 pax 1 porter)
- Kitchen equipment
- Cook
- Donkey driver and donkeys
- Transportation as tour schedule / Huaraz
Not included:
- International flights to Lima / Peru round trip
- Transfer from the airport for bookings of individual flights with different times of arrival / departure
- Exit tax at the airport in Lima
- Travel accident and health insurance
- Luggage insurance and trip cancellation
- Meals in restaurants in Lima and Huaraz
- Personal expenses
- Acclimatization Tour
- Entrance fees to the Huascaran National Park
- Transfer from the Hotel to the airport and bus station
- Domestic flight Airline ticket LC-Peru
- Hotel Casa Andina 2 nights in Lima
- Hotel San Sebastián 4 nights in Huaraz
- Pick up at the airport in Lima to the Hotel
- Personal equipment (such as boots, ice ax, crampons, harness, sleeping bag, mat, Goretex, etc.)
- Tips
What to Bring
What to Bring or take fo Day Hiking and Technical Equipment for Climbing Expedition
This equipment list is compiled to provide you with adequate help when choosing your equipment for a climb. Most items are required. Please consider each of them and make sure you understand the function and exclusive use for mountaineering, before substituting or removing items from this list. Please note that this list has been carefully annotated by the organizer. Remember that mountaineering, mountaineering or mountaineering is an extreme, risky sport, therefore everything related to it is of great attention.
These items should be on your hiking checklist:
Hiking backpack for hiking 30 to 40 liters
Light gloves for hiking or (Optional Mittens waterproof)
Medium weight socks
Sleeping bag (-10º to 15ºC)
Small daypack for one day hiking 20 liters
Weather-appropriate clothing (think moisture-wicking and layers)
Hiking boots or shoes
Medium weight parka with fibber fill or down
Rain poncho (or rain gear)
Long-sleeved shirts
Fleece or Wool sweater and/or trousers
Lightweight pants
Cotton short-sleeved shirts or t-shirts
Water bottle for hiking or trekking
Strong waterproof duffel bag
Flashlight with spare batteries and bulb
Towel for personal hygiene each participantFirst-aid kit
Regular and long underwear
Knife or multi-tool
Light cap and wool hat
Sunglasses with UV certification, Sun block, lips
The rest of the list Essentials as appropriate for your hike
Grooming and personal hygiene kit
One Hiking Buff per person
Technical Equipment for High Altitude Expedition Mountains
3 Locking carabiners, we recommended per person
We recommend 2 ice screws for each client
1 Daisy Chain (Life Line) per each person
2 Ice axes (per person) technical, we recommended GRIVEL company
1 ATC descender (Rappel), this is very necessary for technical mountains
2 Cords for prusik, very important (Size Cord 6 mm x 10 m. long)
Gloves(Good gloves) for expeditions over 6000meters
Harness, we recommended GRIVEL company
Sleeping pad / Mattress, we recommend with air or inflatable mattress
Crampons, we recommended GRIVEL company
Walking sticks (optional), a pair per person, we recommended GRIVEL company
Down Jacket for expedition
Very important to have personal clothing such as pants and jacket with GOROTEX certification
First aid kit, for high mountains, because we as guides cannot medicate clients
Backpack Capacity 60 liters, it is better to have a bigger backpack to go comfortably to the high camps, because here you have to carry all your personal things
Gaiters or Leggings, now modern boots already have built-in (Incorporated), but better to have an extra pair
Dressing appropriately for the mountains can make the difference between a pleasant trip and a really uncomfortable one. Clothing must provide the right degree of temperature, perspiration and be well ventilated. Preferably cotton clothing should be avoided, as in humid conditions they absorb body heat.
In general, the weather conditions in in the Andes of South America can vary from day to day and even throughout the day. Therefore, clothing must be versatile.
Please do not hesitate to contact us with any questions you may have regarding the necessary equipment.
Prices & Dates
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» Additional dates available upon request
» Rates may vary from July 26th to 31th for the national holidays
Prices (per person):
| 1 PAX | 2 PAX | 4 PAX | 6 PAX | 8 PAX | 10 PAX | 12 PAX | 14 PAX |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 3.300,00 USD | 1.650,00 USD | 1.550,00 USD | 1.550,00 USD | 1.450,00 USD | 1.400,00 USD | 1.350,00 USD | 1.300,00 USD |
Deposit for reservations: * 1.000,00 USD (900,00 EUR) ✓ Full payment 40 days before. No refund if you cancel less than 30 days!
Places: 
*Available
Trip-code: Number ►PE-000
Duration: 06 days
Participants: Minimal: 2 Maximal: 12
Members: We don’t have an open group to join – We can open a new group – Contact us!
Country / Location: Northern Peru
Mountain Guide: Juventino Albino Caldua
Other dates / additional info: Contact us!
3% early bird discount when booking 6 months prior to departure 2023
Legend Booking-information:
EZZ Single room supplement
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Juventino Albino Caldua
Expert guide certified by IVBV - UIAGM - IFMGA
Co-Founder, Peru Expeditions
- WhatsApp: +51 943 081 066
- E-Mail: [email protected]
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