Expedition Nevados Urus (5495m), Ishinca (5530m) and Tocllaraju (6034m)-&-Huascaran (6768 m)

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About Quebrada Ishinca: Mountain views – Three Peruvian Peaks – Urus (5495m), Ishinca (5530m) and Tocllaraju (6034m). Climb of Ishinca, with a journey through the Ishinca Valley, is a popular destination for climbers who want to get to 5 or 6000 meter peak, but because of the scenic beauty, this is a great climb even if you don’t reach the peak. On this hike we have a fascinating view of the massif that includes Ishinca, Urus, Tocllaraju, Ranrapalco, the Palcarajus and much more. Ishinca Traverse (5530 m / 18,143 ft)

The first day we left Huaraz to the village of Huillac. We started the walk here toward the Ishinca base camp. On the second day, we climbed the Ishinca and went back to the base camp.

Nevado Urus (5495 m): Ascent from the base camp of Ishinca at (4350 m) to the top of Urus in 2h30 up and 1 hour down.

Urus is an acclimatization mountain to prepare for the higher peaks in the Cordillera Blanca. It’s normally considered a trekking peak more than a climbing one, but weather conditions can make this ‘easy’ summit far from a sure bet. Crevasses are not a concern as the mountain only has a small snow cap. The normal route goes bordering the small glacier for a slope of snow not complicated. The interest in this peak is for its location with great views and the height over the 5000 meters (5420 meters is a very good reward). The Quebrada Ishinca is one of the closer to Huaraz and from its base camp you can climb two 5000 meters peak (Ishinca and Urus) and two 6000 meters peaks (Tocllaraju and Ranrapalca) so you keep travel a minimum. It’s the perfect acclimatization trip. If your time in Peru is short or you have little high altitude experience the climbs in this valley should be considered. Generally after the first trekking the most popular peaks of Cordillera Blanca to overcome the 5000 meters are: Urus Este, Ishinca and Pisco Oeste.

About Huascarán Peak: This mountain has two summits: Huascarán North (6655 m) and the main summit, Huascarán South (6768 m). Huascarán is the highest peak in Peru. Many climbers dream of reaching this high summit of 6,768 meters. Technically, the mountain is not difficult, nevertheless, due to its elevation and risk of avalanches, it is a serious climb.

The mountain offers multiple routes to arrive at the highest point in Peru. In any case, anyone attempting this peak should be well acclimatized to altitude before venturing to these huge glaciated mountains.

Observation: Huascarán South Summit (6.768 m)
The conditions on all mountains change every year; particularly since the glacier between High Camps I and II is receding. Accordingly, some years it is a challenge to get from to High Camp 2 due to the crevasses and the large avalanches that can fall in the chute. Nevertheless, , an ascent of Huascarán is without a doubt one of the highlights of mountaineering in the Andes.

Travel Program

Arrival in Lima – the large city in South America; population approximately 11 million. Rest or explore the city on your own.

Overnight Hotel (-/-/-)

This ride follows the Pan American highway north across the impressive Pacific coastal desert. Continuing toward higher terrain, you pass through the Cordillera Negra (Black Range) at Conococha Pass (4020 m) into the Santa Valley and Huaraz (3100m.) Once across the pass, you’ll see a charming view of the mountains of the Cordillera Blanca, without a doubt some of the most impressive scenery in the world. You can also fly via LCPERU – flight duration 50 minutes.

Overnight Hotel (B/-/-)

For acclimatization we visit the Cordillera Negra, where you can see a magnificent view of the Cordillera Blanca. We’ll have a chance to see wild ducks on the beautiful lake. Wilcacocha, because of its location, is an exceptional viewpoint for the Cordillera Blanca, allowing us to identify peaks (from north to south) Huandoy, Huascarán, Chopicalqui, Hualcan, Copa,Vallunaraju, Ocshapalca, Ranrapalca, Palcaraju, Churup, and many more.

Overnight Hotel (B/L/-)

The trail to Laguna Churup is one of the classic hikes of the Cordillera Blanca, challenging but a great acclimatization route. We drive to the village of Llupa, and from there begin our hike on an ancient Inca trail to Laguna (Lake) Churup. The trail narrows and steepens, but also becomes more interesting, including a small climb with fixed ropes. It is one of the most beautiful places in this varied mountain region. Churup Peak rises above the lake, a wild rocky mountain with glaciers and cliffs 5,400 meters above sea level. Here we can continue climbing and do a loop to the Churup summit trail before returning to the trailhead and back to Huaraz for the night.

Overnight Hotel (B/L/-)

Today we leave the city of Huaraz toward the north and down to the Callejón de Huaylas (also known as the Santa Valley) to the village of Paltay. We continue on an unpaved route to Pashpa (3,400 m), on to the small Lake Cochapampa. Here is where our local team of mule drivers waits for us. It is a 90 minute trip from Huaraz to Paltay. We then have a tranquil climb through the Ishinca Valley to our camp, near Refugio Don Bosco. 4-5 hours.

Overnight Camp (B/L/D)

A continuous climb on a good trail and then over the moraine to the glacier. The climb on the glacier is not steep, except for the last 50 meters to the summit. However, in some years, depending on the conditions at the glacier, there can be some steep sections or hard ice, over which we will be accompanied by a local mountain guide. Return via the same trail to Base Camp. 10-12 hours.

Overnight Camp (B/L/D)

Today we have the entire day free. If participants have any questions about use of technical climbing equipment, today is a good day to practice. Overnight again in Base Camp.

Overnight Camp (B/L/D)

Ascent of the west face of Urus. A sloped route takes us to a ridge, crossing large rocks on the moraine until we reach the glacier. We climb over the snow and ice for an hour; then the last 50 minutes to the summit is easier over the moraine. A steep descent to camp. 7 hours.

Overnight Camp (B/L/D)

About mid day, after lunch, we begin the ascent via a steep moraine to the edge of the glacier. From this point we can seeTocllaraju (6,032 m), very near. We’ll set up our high camp on the moraine. Hiking time: 4-5 hours.

Overnight Camp (B/L/D)

Summit Day! Summit day! After a very early breakfast, we proceed over the glacier to the northwest ridge of the peak. Because the glacier changes from year to year, the technical ice climbing is also different from year to year. We might find small walls of ice, up to 60 degree surfaces. The summit ridge is secured with fixed ropes. From the 6000+ meter peak, the view opens on the entire Cordillera Blanca. Descend to Base Camp. At noon we return to Moraine Camp and continue to Base Camp. Some 10-12 hours today.

Overnight Camp (B/L/D)

After breakfast we leave at 8am for an easy return walk to Pashpa. Today burros will be carrying our camping and personal equipment. We’ll return via a hillside covered with queñuales trees (Polylepis spp.), native to the high Andes. Here our private transport will be waiting. It’s likely we’ll arrive early and have lunch in Huaraz. Lodging in the hotel.

Overnight Camp (B/L/D)

A classic location for those who like rock climbing. This area is 40 minutes north of Huaraz. It was developed thanks to the guides of Don Bosco in the Andes – a private organization formed to facilitate tourism – in 1997. It has 8 developed routes of different difficulties. This is a good place to spend a quiet day in nature and at the end visit the hot springs to relax aching muscles. Lodging in the hotel.

Overnight Camp (B/L/D)

Now the last and best mountain – the highest mountain in Peru, Huascarán. Transfer from Huaraz through the Callejón de Huaylas, the central section of the valley formed by the Santa River between the Cordillera Blanca and the Cordillera Negra. We arrive at the village of Musho, and load our luggage onto burros. From Musho it is a 4-5 hour hike to Huascarán Base Camp (4,250 m), from which we have a beautiful view of the Cordillera Negra.

Overnight Hotel (B/L/-)

Today we‘ll climb to High Camp 1. Porters will help us carry our camping equipment and food . From this point, the southern and northern peaks of Huascarán seem close enough to touch. Dinner and lodging in tents on the glacier. At this altitude, the temperature at night falls to as low as -13°C.

Overnight Hotel (B/-/-)

Very early this morning we continue to climb over the steep section of the glacier, with crevasses, avalanches in the chutes, and an area of icefall with 50° faces requiring ice climbing. We expect to find changes to the rugged glacier because every year with the retreat of the glacier, the conditions change with regard to crevasses, bridges or new avalanches. Our porters accompany us to Camp 2 in La Garganta (“The Throat“), the saddle between the North Summit (6655 m) and the South Summit (6768 m.) We sleep in tents on the glacier.

Overnight Camp (B/L/D)

Summit day! We begin our ascent very early this morning to the South Summit (6768 m) The trail takes us abruptly up, continues through many crevasses and avalanche zones until we arrive at the flat summit ridge. From here you can see all of the Cordillera Blanca, including Alpamayo to the north. The unforgettable view from the summit makes us forget all our effort to get here! After enjoying the summit and taking photos, we begin our descent back to High Camp II. If everyone still feels fine, we can descend to Base Camp (weather permitting) or stay in High Camp II. Rest one hour and begin to go down to Base Camp. Dinner and lodging in Base Camp. Time required: the ascent: 6-7 hours; descent to High Camp II: 3-4 hours; descent from High Camp II to Base Camp: 3-4 hours.

Overnight Hotel (B/L/-)

Extra day in case of bad weather, or to remain in High Camp II.

Overnight Hotel (B/-/-)

Our last expedition day. Early in the morning the mule/burro drivers arrive, and after the luggage is loaded, we descend to the village of Musho, a walk of 3-4 hours. From here our private transport will be waiting to take us to Huaraz, our final destination. Here we say goodbye to our local team; have a complimentary dinner at the home of Juventino Albino Caldua – a special dish called Pachamanca. Lodging in the hotel.

Overnight Home (-/-/-)

Arrival in USA or Austria, Switzerland,Germany, etc.

Overnight Hotel (B/-/-)

Arrival in USA or Austria, Switzerland,Germany, etc.

Overnight flight (B/-/-)

Arrival in USA or Austria, Switzerland,Germany, etc.

Overnight Home (-/-/-)

Included meals: B=breakfast; L=lunch; D=dinner

What's Included

Services included in the prices:

  • Acclimatization Tour
  • Peruvian qualified and experienced local guide/s
  • Entrance fees to the Huascaran National Park
  • Cooks and helpers
  • All meals during the tour
  • Donkey driver and donkeys
  • Camping tents (2 persons)
  • Porters for Nevados Alpamayo and Huascaran
  • Kitchen equipment
  • Transportation as tour schedule / Huaraz
  • Pick up at the airport in Lima to the Hotel
  • Transfer from the Hotel to the airport and bus station
  • Transport public bus or Domestic flight Airline LC-Peru
  • Hotel Kamana 2 nights in Lima or other hotel
  • Hotel Casa Blanca 6 nights in Huaraz or other hotel

Not included:

  • International flights to Lima / Peru round trip
  • Transfer from the airport for bookings of individual flights with different times of arrival / departure
  • Exit tax at the airport in Lima
  • Travel accident and health insurance
  • Luggage insurance and trip cancellation
  • Meals in restaurants in Lima and Huaraz
  • Personal expenses
  • Personal equipment (such as boots, ice ax, crampons, harness, sleeping bag, mat, Goretex, etc.)
  • Tips

Prices & Dates

From / To

14.06. – 04.07.2023 🟢

» Additional dates available upon request
» Rates may vary from July 26th to 31th for the national holidays

Prices (per person): 2.850,00 USD 2.750,00 USD / Contact us!
Deposit for reservations: * 1.000,00 USD (900,00 EUR) ✓ Full payment 40 days before. No refund if you cancel less than 30 days!
Places: 🟢 *Available
Trip-code: Number ►PE-202
Duration: 21 days
Participants: Minimal: 4 Maximal: 12
Members: We don’t have an open group to join – We can open a new group – Contact us!
Country / Location: Northern Peru
Mountain Guide: Juventino Albino Caldua
Other dates / additional info: Contact us!

3% early bird discount when booking 6 months prior to departure 2023

Legend Booking-information:
EZZ Single room supplement
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🔴 This trip is sold out / closed.

Juventino

Juventino Albino Caldua

Expert guide certified by IVBV - UIAGM - IFMGA
Co-Founder, Peru Expeditions
Telephone: (+51) 943780600
E-Mail: [email protected]

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