Expedition Nevados Urus (5495m), Ishinca (5530m) and Tocllaraju (6034m)-&-Huascaran (6768 m)

This ride follows the Pan American highway north across the impressive Pacific coastal desert. Continuing toward higher terrain, you pass through the Cordillera Negra (Black Range) at Conococha Pass (4020 m) into the Santa Valley and Huaraz (3100m.) Once across the pass, you’ll see a charming view of the mountains of the Cordillera Blanca, without a doubt some of the most impressive scenery in the world. You can also fly via LCPERU – flight duration 50 minutes.

Overnight 
Hotel
Driving
By bus 8hours approx
Meals
B/L/-

For acclimatization we visit the Cordillera Negra, where you can see a magnificent view of the Cordillera Blanca. We’ll have a chance to see wild ducks on the beautiful lake. Wilcacocha, because of its location, is an exceptional viewpoint for the Cordillera Blanca, allowing us to identify peaks (from north to south) Huandoy, Huascarán, Chopicalqui, Hualcan, Copa,Vallunaraju, Ocshapalca, Ranrapalca, Palcaraju, Churup, and many more.

Overnight 
Hotel
Driving
2 Hour approx
Hiking
 4 Hours approx
Meals
B/L/-

The trail to Laguna Churup is one of the classic hikes of the Cordillera Blanca, challenging but a great acclimatization route. We drive to the village of Llupa, and from there begin our hike on an ancient Inca trail to Laguna (Lake) Churup. The trail narrows and steepens, but also becomes more interesting, including a small climb with fixed ropes. It is one of the most beautiful places in this varied mountain region. Churup Peak rises above the lake, a wild rocky mountain with glaciers and cliffs 5,400 meters above sea level. Here we can continue climbing and do a loop to the Churup summit trail before returning to the trailhead and back to Huaraz for the night.

Overnight
Hotel 
Driving
2 Hour approx
Hiking
 5 Hours approx
Meals
B/L/-

Today we leave the city of Huaraz toward the north and down to the Callejón de Huaylas (also known as the Santa Valley) to the village of Paltay. We continue on an unpaved route to Pashpa (3,400 m), on to the small Lake Cochapampa. Here is where our local team of mule drivers waits for us. It is a 90 minute trip from Huaraz to Paltay. We then have a tranquil climb through the Ishinca Valley to our camp, near Refugio Don Bosco. 4-5 hours.

Overnight
Camping
Driving 
2 Hours approx
Hiking
 5 Hours approx
Meals
B/L/D

A continuous climb on a good trail and then over the moraine to the glacier. The climb on the glacier is not steep, except for the last 50 meters to the summit. However, in some years, depending on the conditions at the glacier, there can be some steep sections or hard ice, over which we will be accompanied by a local mountain guide. Return via the same trail to Base Camp. 10-12 hours.

Overnight 
Camping
Hiking
 5 Hours approx
Climbing
 7 hours approx
Meals
B/L/D

Today we have the entire day free. If participants have any questions about use of technical climbing equipment, today is a good day to practice. Overnight again in Base Camp.

Overnight 
Camping
Hiking
 Rest day
Meals
B/L/D

Ascent of the west face of Urus. A sloped route takes us to a ridge, crossing large rocks on the moraine until we reach the glacier. We climb over the snow and ice for an hour; then the last 50 minutes to the summit is easier over the moraine. A steep descent to camp. 7 hours.

Overnight
Camping 
Hiking
 7 Hours approx
Meals
B/L/D

About mid day, after lunch, we begin the ascent via a steep moraine to the edge of the glacier. From this point we can seeTocllaraju (6,032 m), very near. We’ll set up our high camp on the moraine. Hiking time: 4-5 hours.

Overnight
Camping 
Hiking
 4 Hours approx
Meals
B/L/D

Summit Day! Summit day! After a very early breakfast, we proceed over the glacier to the northwest ridge of the peak. Because the glacier changes from year to year, the technical ice climbing is also different from year to year. We might find small walls of ice, up to 60 degree surfaces. The summit ridge is secured with fixed ropes. From the 6000+ meter peak, the view opens on the entire Cordillera Blanca. Descend to Base Camp. At noon we return to Moraine Camp and continue to Base Camp. Some 10-12 hours today.

Overnight 
Camping
Climbing
 8 hours approx
Hiking
 3 Hours approx
Meals
B/L/D

After breakfast we leave at 8am for an easy return walk to Pashpa. Today burros will be carrying our camping and personal equipment. We’ll return via a hillside covered with queñuales trees (Polylepis spp.), native to the high Andes. Here our private transport will be waiting. It’s likely we’ll arrive early and have lunch in Huaraz. Lodging in the hotel.

Overnight 
Hotel
Hiking donw
 4 Hours approx.
Driving
2 Hour approx
Meals
B/L/D

A classic location for those who like rock climbing. This area is 40 minutes north of Huaraz. It was developed thanks to the guides of Don Bosco in the Andes – a private organization formed to facilitate tourism – in 1997. It has 8 developed routes of different difficulties. This is a good place to spend a quiet day in nature and at the end visit the hot springs to relax aching muscles. Lodging in the hotel.

Overnight 
Hotel
Hiking donw
 Rest day
Driving
1 Hour approx
Meals
B/L/D

Now the last and best mountain – the highest mountain in Peru, Huascarán. Transfer from Huaraz through the Callejón de Huaylas, the central section of the valley formed by the Santa River between the Cordillera Blanca and the Cordillera Negra. We arrive at the village of Musho, and load our luggage onto burros. From Musho it is a 4-5 hour hike to Huascarán Base Camp (4,250 m), from which we have a beautiful view of the Cordillera Negra.

Overnight
Camping
Driving
3 Hour approx
Hiking
5 Hours approx.
Meals
B/L/D

Today we‘ll climb to High Camp 1. Porters will help us carry our camping equipment and food . From this point, the southern and northern peaks of Huascarán seem close enough to touch. Dinner and lodging in tents on the glacier. At this altitude, the temperature at night falls to as low as -13°C.

Overnight
Camping 
Climbing
 2 hours approx
Hiking
 2 Hours approx.
Meals
B/L/D

Very early this morning we continue to climb over the steep section of the glacier, with crevasses, avalanches in the chutes, and an area of icefall with 50° faces requiring ice climbing. We expect to find changes to the rugged glacier because every year with the retreat of the glacier, the conditions change with regard to crevasses, bridges or new avalanches. Our porters accompany us to Camp 2 in La Garganta (“The Throat“), the saddle between the North Summit (6655 m) and the South Summit (6768 m.) We sleep in tents on the glacier.

Overnight 
Camping
Climbing
 5 hours approx
Meals
B/L/D

Summit day! We begin our ascent very early this morning to the South Summit (6768 m) The trail takes us abruptly up, continues through many crevasses and avalanche zones until we arrive at the flat summit ridge. From here you can see all of the Cordillera Blanca, including Alpamayo to the north. The unforgettable view from the summit makes us forget all our effort to get here! After enjoying the summit and taking photos, we begin our descent back to High Camp II. If everyone still feels fine, we can descend to Base Camp (weather permitting) or stay in High Camp II. Rest one hour and begin to go down to Base Camp. Dinner and lodging in Base Camp. Time required: the ascent: 6-7 hours; descent to High Camp II: 3-4 hours; descent from High Camp II to Base Camp: 3-4 hours.

Overnight 
Camping
Climbing
 12 hours approx
Hiking down
 5 Hours approx.
Meals
B/L/D

Extra day in case of bad weather, or to remain in High Camp II.

Overnight 
Camping
Hiking down
 5 Hours approx.
Meals
B/L/D

Our last expedition day. Early in the morning the mule/burro drivers arrive, and after the luggage is loaded, we descend to the village of Musho, a walk of 3-4 hours. From here our private transport will be waiting to take us to Huaraz, our final destination. Here we say goodbye to our local team; have a complimentary dinner at the home of Juventino Albino Caldua – a special dish called Pachamanca. Lodging in the hotel.

Overnight 
Hotel
Hiking down
 4 Hours approx.
Meals
B/L/D

Options: Flight or bus. Flights are via LC-Peru and last 50 minutes.

Overnight
Hotel 
Driving
8 Hours by bus approx
Meals
B/-/-

Arrival in USA or Austria, Switzerland,Germany, etc.

Overnight
Hotel 
Driving
1 Hours approx
Meals
B/-/-

Arrival in USA or Austria, Switzerland,Germany, etc.

Overnight flight (B/-/-)