Expeditions Nevados Alpamayo (5947 m) and Huascarán (6768 m). The most beautiful mountain in the world and the highest peak of Peru

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Highlights of the Cordillera Blanca. The highest tropical mountain range in the world, the Cordillera Blanca is part of the spectacular Andes that form the spine of South America. A mecca for hikers and outdoor enthusiasts, the region boasts over 50 peaks that exceed 15,000 feet, 700 glaciers and 300 lakes.

Trekking Santa Cruz: One of the most popular treks in the Cordillera Blanca, the hike around this subtropical mountain range passes through impressive landscapes of uncommonly beautiful mountains, frequent lakes and glaciers. The camps are some of the most spectacular in the world. This is a short and very popular hike with spectacular views of lakes and mountains.

For acclimatization, we begin with a day hike to Laguna (Lake) Churup, at 4,450m. The highest and most demanding pass on the Santa Cruz trek is Punta Union Pass (4750m).

About Alpamayo Peak: The pyramid shaped Alpamayo is considered one of the most beautiful mountains in the world. The ascent toward the peak is very steep and the majority of it is a technical climb. This mountain should only be attempted by those who are well acclimatized and who have summited of other high peaks. From one side Alpamayo is an almost perfect pyramid, covered with enormous ice shelves. The other face, the trapezoidal southwest wall, is even more beautiful. All of the Cordillera Blanca mountain range is protected by Huascarán National Park, a paradise of snowcapped peaks. The park also includes the peaks of Huandoy and Huascarán (the highest mountain in Peru), as well as 663 glaciers, 269 lakes, some 42 rivers, as well as 33 archaeological sites.

About Huascarán Peak: Huascarán is the highest peak in Peru. This mountain has two summits: Huascarán North (6655 m) and the main summit, Huascarán South (6768 m). Many climbers dream of reaching the high summit of 6768 meters. Huascarán offers multiple routes to arrive at the highest point in Peru. Technically, the climb is not difficult, nevertheless, due to its elevation and risk of avalanches, it is a serious endeavor.

Observation: Huascarán South Summit (6,768 m) The conditions on all mountains change every year; Huascarán is no exception. The glacier between the first and second camps is receding, and as such, some years it is a challenge to get from high camp 1 to high camp 2 due to the crevasses and the large avalanches that may fall in the primary chute. Nevertheless, an ascent of Huascarán is, without a doubt, one of the highlights of mountaineering in the Andes.

Difficulty Condition

Travel Program

Arrival in Lima – a large city with a population of approximately 11 million – the largest city in South America. Rest. If you wish, explore the city on your own.

Overnight 
Hotel
Meals
-/-/-

This ride follows the Pan American highway north across the impressive Pacific coastal desert. Continuing toward higher terrain, we pass through the Cordillera Negra (Black Range) at Conococha Pass (4020 m) into the Santa Valley and Huaraz (3100m.) Once across the pass, you’ll see a charming view of the mountains of the Cordillera Blanca, without a doubt some of the most impressive scenery in the world. You can also fly via LCPERU – flight duration 50 minutes.

Overnight 
Hotel
Driving
By bus 8hours approx
Meals
B/L/-

For acclimatization we visit the Cordillera Negra, where you can see a magnificent view of the Cordillera Blanca. We’ll have a chance to see wild ducks on the beautiful lake. Wilcacocha, because of its location, is an exceptional viewpoint for the Cordillera Blanca, allowing us to identify peaks (from north to south) Huandoy, Huascarán, Chopicalqui, Hualcan, Copa,Vallunaraju, Ocshapalca, Ranrapalca, Palcaraju, Churup, and many more

Overnight 
Camping
Driving
1 Hour approx
Hiking
 3 Hours approx
Meals
B/L/D

After our breakfast we return early to our hotel, lunch the whole group in the city of Huaraz.

Overnight
Hotel 
Driving
1 Hour approx
Hiking
 3 Hours approx
Meals
B/L/-

The trail to Laguna Churup is one of the classic hikes of the Cordillera Blanca, challenging but a great acclimatization route. We drive to the village of Llupa, and from there begin our hike on an ancient Inca trail to Laguna (Lake) Churup. The trail gets narrow and steep, including a small section with fixed ropes. It‘s one of the most beautiful places in this varied mountain region. Churup Peak rises above the lake, a wild rocky mountain with glaciers and cliffs 5,400 meters above sea level. Here we can continue climbing and do a loop to the Churup summit trail before returning to the trailhead and back to Huaraz for the night.

Overnight
Hotel 
Driving
1 Hours approx
Hiking
 5 Hours approx
Meals
B/L/-

Huaraz Privat transfer drive about 3 Hours to village Cashapampa via valley of Santa river crossing villages Caraz, Yugay and Caraz; Starting the Trekking Santa Cruz; meeting team and burros, trekking up to Llamacoral (3850 m).

Overnight 
Camping
Driving
3 Hour approx
Hiking
 5 Hours approx
Meals
B/L/D

Camp Llamacoral – Trekking to Arhuaycocha (4300 m). With views of the peaks Alpamayo, Artesnorahu and Taulliraju. Night at the Base Camp of Alpamayo (4350 m).

Overnight 
Camping
Hiking
 4 Hours approx.
Meals
B/L/D

Today we have a good breakfast and prepare the expedition equipment for Alpamayo, from here we begin using a local team (porters, cook and local guides), who will help us carry everything. We set out for the moraine after a small lunch in Base Camp. The trail takes us across the steep moraine at the tongue of the glacier to Moraine Camp (4,900 m).

Overnight
Camping 
Hiking
 4 Hours approx
Meals
B/L/D

Alpamayo High Camp is on the steep glacier at the base of Alpamayo and Quitaraju. Due to the constant shrinkage of the glacier, every year we find a different situation along this section. We find magnificent views from High Camp the summit looks close enough to touch! We have dinner a bit early because we must rise very early, for the long day that awaits us tomorrow. High Camp (5,300 m).

Overnight
Camping 
Climbing
 3 hours approx
Hiking
 2 Hours approx
Meals
B/L/D

Summit day! One possible route is the French route, a 60 to 80 degree wall of ice which narrows toward the top. . Above the wall, you need to conquer a few meters to the highest point of the narrow ridge. At the summit, you will be rewarded with a magnificent view of the Cordillera Blanca! The neighboring peak of Quitaraju (6,036 m) is almost within striking distance; and to the southwest you can see the remarkable summit of Huascarán (6,768 m.) After a brief rest and photos at the summit, we return quickly to High Camp via a rappel down the route we came up. In good weather, the climb to the summit and return to base camp can be done before noon. The ascent takes 5-6 hours, while the descent takes about 2-3 hours. If participants are tired, we can stay one more night in High Camp. If everyone feels fine, which is usual, we descend to Alpamayo Base Camp (4,300 m).

Overnight 
Camping
Climbing
 12 hours approx
Hiking donw
 3 Hours approx
Meals
B/L/D

Today we rise early in order to begin our hike, descending through the Santa Cruz valley to Cashapampa (about 6 hours.) In this village our minibus awaits to take us and the local expedition team back to Huaraz. Lodging at the hotel.

Overnight
Hotel 
Hiking
 5 Hours approx.
Meals
B/L/-

Rest day in Huaraz. Optional: Rock climbing at the walls of Chancas. A classic location for many rock climbing enthusiasts. This area is 40 minutes north of Huaraz. It was developed thanks to the guides of Don Bosco in the Andes (a non-profit organization dedicated to developing tourism) in 1997. It has 8 developed routes of different difficulties. It is a good place to spend a quiet day in nature and then visit the local hot springs to relax aching muscles.

Overnight 
Hotel
Hiking
 Hots spring
Driving
1 Hours approx
Meals
B/-/-

Now the last and best mountain – the highest mountain in Peru, Huascarán. Transfer from Huaraz through the Callejón de Huaylas, the central section of the valley formed by the Santa River between the Cordillera Blanca and the Cordillera Negra. We arrive at the village of Musho, and load our luggage onto burros. From Musho it is a 4-5 hour hike to Huascarán Base Camp (4,250 m), from which we have a beautiful view of the Cordillera Negra.

Overnight 
Camping
Driving
3 Hours approx
Hiking
 5 Hours approx.
Meals
B/L/D

Today we‘ll climb to High Camp 1. Porters will help us carry our camping equipment and food . From this point, the southern and northern peaks of Huascarán seem close enough to touch. Dinner and lodging in tents on the glacier. At this altitude, the temperature at night falls to as low as -13°C.

Overnight
Camping 
Climbing
 2 hours approx
Hiking
 2 Hours approx.
Meals
B/L/D

Very early this morning we continue to climb over the steep section of the glacier, with crevasses, avalanches in the chutes, and an area of icefall with 50° faces requiring ice climbing. We expect to find changes to the rugged glacier because every year with the retreat of the glacier, the conditions change with regard to crevasses, bridges or new avalanches. Our porters accompany us to Camp 2 in La Garganta (“The Throat“), the saddle between the North Summit (6655 m) and the South Summit (6768 m.) We sleep in tents on the glacier.

Overnight 
Camping
Climbing
 5 hours approx
Meals
B/L/D

Summit day! We begin our ascent very early this morning to the South Summit (6768 m) The trail takes us abruptly up, continues through many crevasses and avalanche zones until we arrive at the flat summit ridge. From here you can see all of the Cordillera Blanca, including Alpamayo to the north. The unforgettable view from the summit makes us forget all our effort to get here! After enjoying the summit and taking photos, we begin our descent back to High Camp II. If everyone still feels fine, we can descend to Base Camp (weather permitting) or stay in High Camp II. Rest one hour and begin to go down to Base Camp. Dinner and lodging in Base Camp. Time required: the ascent: 6-7 hours; descent to High Camp II: 3-4 hours; descent from High Camp II to Base Camp: 3-4 hours.

Overnight 
Camping
Climbing
 12 hours approx
Hiking down
 5 Hours approx.
Meals
B/L/D

Our last expedition day. Early in the morning the mule/burro drivers arrive, and after the luggage is loaded, we descend to the village of Musho, a walk of 3-4 hours. From here our private transport will be waiting to take us to Huaraz, our final destination. Here we say goodbye to our local team; have a complimentary dinner at the home of Juventino Albino Caldua – a special dish called Pachamanca. Lodging in the hotel.

Overnight 
Hotel
Hiking down
 4 Hours approx.
Meals
B/L/D

Options: Flight or bus. Flights are via LC-Peru and last 50 minutes.

Overnight 
Hotel
Driving
By bus 8hours approx
Meals
B/-/-

Arrival in USA or Austria, Switzerland,Germany, etc.

Overnight 
Hotel
Driving
1 Hours approx
Meals
B/-/-

Arrival in USA or Austria, Switzerland,Germany, etc.

Overnight Home (-/-/-)

Included meals: B=breakfast; L=lunch; D=dinner

What's Included

Services included in the prices:

  • Acclimatization Tour
  • Peruvian qualified and experienced local guide/s
  • Entrance fees to the Huascaran National Park
  • Cooks and helpers
  • All meals during the tour
  • Donkey driver and donkeys
  • Camping tents (2 persons)
  • Porters for Nevados Alpamayo and Huascaran
  • Kitchen equipment
  • Transportation as tour schedule / Huaraz
  • Pick up at the airport in Lima to the Hotel
  • Transfer from the Hotel to the airport and bus station
  • Transport public bus or Domestic flight Airline LC-Peru
  • Hotel Kamana 2 nights in Lima or other hotel
  • Hotel Casa Blanca 6 nights in Huaraz or other hotel

Not included:

  • International flights to Lima / Peru round trip
  • Transfer from the airport for bookings of individual flights with different times of arrival / departure
  • Exit tax at the airport in Lima
  • Travel accident and health insurance
  • Luggage insurance and trip cancellation
  • Meals in restaurants in Lima and Huaraz
  • Personal expenses
  • Personal equipment (such as boots, ice ax, crampons, harness, sleeping bag, mat, Goretex, etc.)
  • Tips

What to Bring

What to Bring or take fo Day Hiking and Technical Equipment for Climbing Expedition

This equipment list is compiled to provide you with adequate help when choosing your equipment for a climb. Most items are required. Please consider each of them and make sure you understand the function and exclusive use for mountaineering, before substituting or removing items from this list. Please note that this list has been carefully annotated by the organizer. Remember that mountaineering, mountaineering or mountaineering is an extreme, risky sport, therefore everything related to it is of great attention.

These items should be on your hiking checklist:

Hiking backpack for hiking 30 to 40 liters

Light gloves for hiking or (Optional Mittens waterproof)

Medium weight socks

Sleeping bag (-10º to 15ºC)

Small daypack for one day hiking 20 liters

Weather-appropriate clothing (think moisture-wicking and layers)

Hiking boots or shoes

Medium weight parka with fibber fill or down

Rain poncho (or rain gear)

Long-sleeved shirts

Fleece or Wool sweater and/or trousers

Lightweight pants

Cotton short-sleeved shirts or t-shirts

Water bottle for hiking or trekking

Strong waterproof duffel bag

Flashlight with spare batteries and bulb

Towel for personal hygiene each participantFirst-aid kit

Regular and long underwear

Knife or multi-tool

Light cap and wool hat

Sunglasses with UV certification, Sun block, lips

The rest of the list Essentials as appropriate for your hike

Grooming and personal hygiene kit

One Hiking Buff per person

Technical Equipment for High Altitude Expedition Mountains

3 Locking carabiners, we recommended per person

We recommend 2 ice screws for each client

1 Daisy Chain (Life Line) per each person

2 Ice axes (per person) technical, we recommended GRIVEL company

1 ATC descender (Rappel), this is very necessary for technical mountains

2 Cords for prusik, very important (Size Cord 6 mm x 10 m. long)

Gloves(Good gloves) for expeditions over 6000meters

Harness, we recommended GRIVEL company

Sleeping pad / Mattress, we recommend with air or inflatable mattress

Crampons, we recommended GRIVEL company

Walking sticks (optional), a pair per person, we recommended GRIVEL company

Down Jacket for expedition

Very important to have personal clothing such as pants and jacket with GOROTEX certification

First aid kit, for high mountains, because we as guides cannot medicate clients

Backpack Capacity 60 liters, it is better to have a bigger backpack to go comfortably to the high camps, because here you have to carry all your personal things

Gaiters or Leggings, now modern boots already have built-in (Incorporated), but better to have an extra pair

Dressing appropriately for the mountains can make the difference between a pleasant trip and a really uncomfortable one. Clothing must provide the right degree of temperature, perspiration and be well ventilated. Preferably cotton clothing should be avoided, as in humid conditions they absorb body heat.

In general, the weather conditions in in the Andes of South America can vary from day to day and even throughout the day. Therefore, clothing must be versatile.

Please do not hesitate to contact us with any questions you may have regarding the necessary equipment.

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Deposit for reservations: — USD (– EUR) ✓ Full payment 40 days before. No refund if you cancel less than 30 days!

Places: 🟢 *Available
Trip-code: Number ►PER-
Duration: 20 days
Participants: Minimal: 4 Maximal: 12
Members: We don’t have an open group to join – We can open a new group – Contact us!
Country / Location: Peru
Mountain Guide: Eric Albino Lliuya
Other dates / additional info: Contact us!

3% early bird discount when booking 6 months prior to departure 2023

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Juventino Albino Caldua

Expert guide certified by IVBV - UIAGM - IFMGA
Co-Founder, Peru Expeditions

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