Climbing Nevado Vallunaraju (5686 m)

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About Nevado Vallunaraju: The high peak of North Vallunaraju, at 5,686 meters, is close enough to Huaraz to do a summit trek in two days via a moderate climb. Setting out for this peak, you can see other peaks of the northern part of the Cordillera Blanca, including Oxshapalca (5,881 m) and Ranrapalca (6,262 m.) From the summit of Vallunaraju there is a beautiful view of the city of Huaraz and the Callejón de Huaylas (the central area of the valley between the Cordilleras Blanca and Negra.) Between North and South Villunaraju, there are 5 routes via different walls. The first ascent was to the North peak in 1949 via what has come to be called the “normal route“, which is what this trek follows as well. It‘s also a good place to practice ski mountaineering.

About Vallunaraju Peak: is one of the most predominant mountains that can be seen directly from Huaraz as well from Cordillera Negra. It can be easily identified and distinguished from other mountains for its double – headed summit from which the northern summit is the highest one.

Vallunaraju is a great acclimatization-climb for those seeking for higher elevations in Cordillera Blanca. Its proximity to Huaraz (3,091 m / 10,138 ft), which is a climbing, mountaineering and backpacking mecca for outdoor seekers and the capital city of the Ancash Department, makes of Vallunaraju one of the main destinations offered by local and international expedition companies as part of their itineraries.


It is one of the most frequented 5,000 meter peaks in Cordillera Blanca because of its easy access to its refuge and to its glacier as well. The normal route is considered relatively easy, even though it changes constantly from time to time.

Difficulty Condition

Travel Program

Leave from Huaraz in private transport to the Llaca Valley (3850 m). From here we begin our ascent on foot to Moraine Camp, spending about two hours on the trail. This climb is relatively long and steep; we proceed very slowly so we don’t get too tired and can adjust to the altitude before our summit day tomorrow.

Driving
2 Hours approx

Overnight
Camping

Hiking
4 Hours approx

Meals

-/L/D

Leave Moraine Camp at approximately 2-3 am, in order to reach the summit by about 8 a.m. After arriving at the summit, we return to our starting point in the Llaca Valley where the bus waits to take us back to Huaraz.

Overnight 
Hotel

Hiking
 3 Hours approx

Climbing
 9 Hours approx

Driving
 2 Hours approx

Meals

 B/L/-

Included meals: B=breakfast; L=lunch; D=dinner

What's Included

Services included in the prices:

  • Peruvian qualified and experienced local guide/s
  • All meals during the tour
  • Camping tents (2 persons)
  • Porters Nevado Vallunaraju (2 pax 1 porter)
  • Kitchen equipment
  • Cooks
  • Transportation as tour schedule / Huaraz

Not included:

  • International flights to Lima / Peru round trip
  • Transfer from the airport for bookings of individual flights with different times of arrival / departure
  • Exit tax at the airport in Lima
  • Travel accident and health insurance
  • Luggage insurance and trip cancellation
  • Meals in restaurants in Lima and Huaraz
  • Personal expenses
  • Acclimatization Tour
  • Entrance fees to the Huascaran National Park
  • Donkey driver and donkeys
  • Transfer from the Hotel to the airport and bus station
  • Domestic flight Airline ticket LC-Peru
  • Hotel Casa Andina 2 nights in Lima
  • Hotel San Sebastián 4 nights in Huaraz
  • Pick up at the airport in Lima to the Hotel
  • Personal equipment (such as boots, ice ax, crampons, harness, sleeping bag, mat, Goretex, etc.)
  • Tips

What to Bring

What to Bring or take fo Day Hiking and Technical Equipment for Climbing Expedition

This equipment list is compiled to provide you with adequate help when choosing your equipment for a climb. Most items are required. Please consider each of them and make sure you understand the function and exclusive use for mountaineering, before substituting or removing items from this list. Please note that this list has been carefully annotated by the organizer. Remember that mountaineering, mountaineering or mountaineering is an extreme, risky sport, therefore everything related to it is of great attention.

These items should be on your hiking checklist:

Hiking backpack for hiking 30 to 40 liters

Light gloves for hiking or (Optional Mittens waterproof)

Medium weight socks

Sleeping bag (-10º to 15ºC)

Small daypack for one day hiking 20 liters

Weather-appropriate clothing (think moisture-wicking and layers)

Hiking boots or shoes

Medium weight parka with fibber fill or down

Rain poncho (or rain gear)

Long-sleeved shirts

Fleece or Wool sweater and/or trousers

Lightweight pants

Cotton short-sleeved shirts or t-shirts

Water bottle for hiking or trekking

Strong waterproof duffel bag

Flashlight with spare batteries and bulb

Towel for personal hygiene each participantFirst-aid kit

Regular and long underwear

Knife or multi-tool

Light cap and wool hat

Sunglasses with UV certification, Sun block, lips

The rest of the list Essentials as appropriate for your hike

Grooming and personal hygiene kit

One Hiking Buff per person

Technical Equipment for High Altitude Expedition Mountains

3 Locking carabiners, we recommended per person

We recommend 2 ice screws for each client

1 Daisy Chain (Life Line) per each person

2 Ice axes (per person) technical, we recommended GRIVEL company

1 ATC descender (Rappel), this is very necessary for technical mountains

2 Cords for prusik, very important (Size Cord 6 mm x 10 m. long)

Gloves(Good gloves) for expeditions over 6000meters

Harness, we recommended GRIVEL company

Sleeping pad / Mattress, we recommend with air or inflatable mattress

Crampons, we recommended GRIVEL company

Walking sticks (optional), a pair per person, we recommended GRIVEL company

Down Jacket for expedition

Very important to have personal clothing such as pants and jacket with GOROTEX certification

First aid kit, for high mountains, because we as guides cannot medicate clients

Backpack Capacity 60 liters, it is better to have a bigger backpack to go comfortably to the high camps, because here you have to carry all your personal things

Gaiters or Leggings, now modern boots already have built-in (Incorporated), but better to have an extra pair

Dressing appropriately for the mountains can make the difference between a pleasant trip and a really uncomfortable one. Clothing must provide the right degree of temperature, perspiration and be well ventilated. Preferably cotton clothing should be avoided, as in humid conditions they absorb body heat.

In general, the weather conditions in in the Andes of South America can vary from day to day and even throughout the day. Therefore, clothing must be versatile.

Please do not hesitate to contact us with any questions you may have regarding the necessary equipment.

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Duration: 02 days
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Country / Location: Northern Peru
Mountain Guide: Juventino Albino Caldua
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Juventino Albino Caldua

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