Climbing Nevado Huarapasca
Located south of the Cordillera Blanca; it has 3 slopes of 60° – 70, which makes it ideal for gaining experience in ice climbing technique or for climbing your first technical summit; it also allows acclimatization for a more technically complex expedition.
Duration: 13 hours approximately.
Maximum altitude: 5418 m.s.n.m.
Ideal season: April to September, also it is possible to climb all the year
Difficulty: Easy – Moderate
Day 1: Huaraz (3100 m) private Transfer via Catac (3566 m) - Campo Morrena (4950 m) - Cumbre Huarapasca (5418 m) – Back to Huaraz on the same day
The Nevado Huarapasca is located in the southern part of the Cordillera Blanca, it is surrounded by little-explored mountains such as Tuco, Challhua, Caullaraju, Juchuraju, among others. The Huarapasca is a mountain that offers an accessible and fun experience for those who wish to do technical wall climbing since it does not present great difficulties. Nevado Huarapasca has 3 slopes of 60° – 65° which makes it ideal for gaining experience in ice climbing technique, it is also an excellent mountain to acclimatize and prepare before a more technically complex expedition. Its summit is very picturesque, with a great visual domain of the Cordillera Blanca, Cordillera Huayhuash, Cordillera Negra and Cordillera Hualcán. The Nevado Huarapasca has become popular among climbers who want to gain experience in ice climbing because its access is fast and short. Huarapasca will undoubtedly give you a good climbing experience until you reach its main summit. Huaraz – Pastoruri – Nevado Huarapasca – return. Between 2:30 am departure from Huaraz to head south along the main highway for approximately 45 km to Pachacoto (Catac), then we turn east on the dirt road that leads to the Pastoruri snowfall, before the fork we turn to the left for a few kilometers to approach near the base of the mountain. From where the vehicle leaves us, we will walk for 1 km until we reach the base of the glacier, the path is over rocky terrain. Then we head towards the rock face, the glacier on the left will be visible from a little higher. Below the glacier the route briefly crosses a path on snow at an angle of approx 20°, then there are about 3 pitches of steep wall, then the glacier flattens out, later we will climb 2 more steep pitches to the summit. From the summit great views of the Cordillera Huayhuash and Cordillera Blanca. Return by the same climbing path to the vehicle that awaits us.
End of the tour in Huaraz, between 3:00 to 4:00 pm approx.
Time by car: 6 hours approx. (round trip)
Activity time in the mountains: 8 to 9 hours in total.
*If you want to join a group, the price 250 USD
6 hours approx
4 Hours approx
4 hours approx
Included meals: B=breakfast; L=lunch; D=dinner
Services included in the prices:
- Certified mountain guide (English, Spanish AGMP-UIAGM)
- Private transportation: Huaraz – Pastoruri – Huaraz
- Technical Mountain Equipment (boots, harness, helmet, ice ax and crampons)
- Advice before the ascent
First aid kit
- Air ticket to Lima and to the country of origin
- Bus transportation Lima / Huaraz / Lima
- Acclimatization tour
- 1 personal box lunch
- Tips for our local team
- Entrance fee to the Huascarán National Park: 10 USD
- Extra costs for premature abandonment of the Expedition
- International health insurance
- Accident and rescue insurance
- Travel baggage and trip cancellation insurance
- Unscheduled transfers to Huaraz in case of premature abandonment of the expedition
- Does not include lunch personal expenses
- Hotel Valery Center **
What to Bring
What to Bring or take fo Day Hiking and Technical Equipment for Climbing Expedition
This equipment list is compiled to provide you with adequate help when choosing your equipment for a climb. Most items are required. Please consider each of them and make sure you understand the function and exclusive use for mountaineering, before substituting or removing items from this list. Please note that this list has been carefully annotated by the organizer. Remember that mountaineering, mountaineering or mountaineering is an extreme, risky sport, therefore everything related to it is of great attention.
These items should be on your hiking checklist:
Hiking backpack for hiking 30 to 40 liters
Light gloves for hiking or (Optional Mittens waterproof)
Medium weight socks
Sleeping bag (-10º to 15ºC)
Small daypack for one day hiking 20 liters
Weather-appropriate clothing (think moisture-wicking and layers)
Hiking boots or shoes
Medium weight parka with fibber fill or down
Rain poncho (or rain gear)
Fleece or Wool sweater and/or trousers
Cotton short-sleeved shirts or t-shirts
Water bottle for hiking or trekking
Strong waterproof duffel bag
Flashlight with spare batteries and bulb
Towel for personal hygiene each participantFirst-aid kit
Regular and long underwear
Knife or multi-tool
Light cap and wool hat
Sunglasses with UV certification, Sun block, lips
The rest of the list Essentials as appropriate for your hike
Grooming and personal hygiene kit
One Hiking Buff per person
Technical Equipment for High Altitude Expedition Mountains
3 Locking carabiners, we recommended per person
We recommend 2 ice screws for each client
1 Daisy Chain (Life Line) per each person
2 Ice axes (per person) technical, we recommended GRIVEL company
1 ATC descender (Rappel), this is very necessary for technical mountains
2 Cords for prusik, very important (Size Cord 6 mm x 10 m. long)
Gloves(Good gloves) for expeditions over 6000meters
Harness, we recommended GRIVEL company
Sleeping pad / Mattress, we recommend with air or inflatable mattress
Crampons, we recommended GRIVEL company
Walking sticks (optional), a pair per person, we recommended GRIVEL company
Down Jacket for expedition
Very important to have personal clothing such as pants and jacket with GOROTEX certification
First aid kit, for high mountains, because we as guides cannot medicate clients
Backpack Capacity 60 liters, it is better to have a bigger backpack to go comfortably to the high camps, because here you have to carry all your personal things
Gaiters or Leggings, now modern boots already have built-in (Incorporated), but better to have an extra pair
Dressing appropriately for the mountains can make the difference between a pleasant trip and a really uncomfortable one. Clothing must provide the right degree of temperature, perspiration and be well ventilated. Preferably cotton clothing should be avoided, as in humid conditions they absorb body heat.
In general, the weather conditions in in the Andes of South America can vary from day to day and even throughout the day. Therefore, clothing must be versatile.
Please do not hesitate to contact us with any questions you may have regarding the necessary equipment.
Prices & Dates
— JUL 2023 / — AUG 2023
» Additional dates available upon request
» Rates may vary from July 26th to 31th for the national holidays
» Does not apply for the dates of Holy Week and/or National Holidays
Prices (per person):
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Deposit for reservations: — USD (– EUR) ✓ Full payment 40 days before. No refund if you cancel less than 30 days!
Trip-code: Number ►PER-
Duration: 03 days
Participants: Minimal: 4 Maximal: 12
Members: We don’t have an open group to join – We can open a new group – Contact us!
Country / Location: Peru
Mountain Guide: Eric Albino Lliuya
Other dates / additional info: Contact us!
3% early bird discount when booking 6 months prior to departure 2023
EZZ Single room supplement
🟢 On this trip, places are still available.
🟡 On this trip, only a few places left.
🔴 This trip is sold out / closed.
- Carry out 01 minimum day of acclimatization at heights greater than 3500 meters above sea level. (Example: Parón Lagoon, Lagoon 69, Pastoruri Glacier, etc.)
- By contracting this service, the participant automatically agrees to abide by and comply with the rules that mountaineering implies, as well as the recommendations and decisions of the main guide, since the physical safety of the participant depends on that.
- Bring: appropriate clothing (synthetic or feather jacket, waterproof jacket, trekking pants), woolen or waterproof gloves, woolen or buff cap, sunscreen/protector, bring a 25L – 30L backpack, water (min. 1 liter ), UV4 sunglasses.
- If you do not have an implement, request information from the contact numbers for your respective rental.
Juventino Albino Caldua
Expert guide certified by IVBV - UIAGM - IFMGA
Co-Founder, Peru Expeditions