Climbing Nevado Huamashraju (5434 m)

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About Nevado Huamashraju: Located east of the tow Huaraz city. A beautiful mountain has spectacular views from the Summitst. you can appreciate the Nevado Churup, Nevado Vallunaraju, Nevado San Juan, Nevado, great Nevado Huascaran, Nevado Huantsan and others.

This is a really tempting mountain close to Huaraz. Actually you see the mountain from most of the places in Huaraz. To get there, you hire a taxi to take you to where the road ends on the other side of the valley from Pitec. There you can hire a donkey to take your luggage more than half ways to base camp. The trek is beautiful, but steep. Still you’ll reach base camp after 3-4 hours of trekking.

From base camp you have several options to reach the summit of this spectacular, pyramid shaped mountain. You can climb the glacier to the right both ways, or you can mountain climb the ridge on the left side or the north wall. The ridge has one difficult section (6-), but is a very nice alternative. The north wall has a couple of sections 3+/4-, but has no major difficulties on the way up (remember some belay gear if you are going the same way down). If you want do some mixed, you can go down the glacier. You will need 3-4 pickets, but except for that it is an easy way down (be aware though to get off the glacier on the right place, on the northern end of the glacier).

Huamashraju in Quechua means: “Nevado del Miedo” or “Mountain of Fear”. The mountain has a pyramidal shape and can be seen from most points of Huaraz, being probably the closest mountain to the city, sitting between Quebrdas Shallap and Rajucolta. This mountain is part of the Huantsan massif. It has an east (5350m) and west summit (5434m). It was first climbed in May 15th 1954 by locals J. Cabana and A. Soriano.

Quoting a local, (there are no easy routes on Huamashraju), meaning most if not all are on the D range and above. It offers several alpine routes: the ones on the left side are mainly alpine rock on crack systems, followed by some alpine ice and mixed climbing. Routes on its right side are the opposite, with straightforward and short glacier crossing, followed by alpine ice and mixed climb to the rocky summit. Most of these routes are not cataloged, and the mountain is seldom climb even though it is so close to Huaraz. The north face has some 400m of granite walls that offer quality granite. It is most frequented by locals, but is a great option as a technical acclimatization climb or if you are in a hurry: if fit, you can climb it from Huaraz to Huaraz in a day. Most climbers leave Huaraz one day and return on the next. Huamashraju is a mountain that is being hit hard by global warming, having lost an immense amount of its glacier covering in the past 15 years.

Travel Program

Departure at 8:00 am. Eastbound from the city of Huaraz toward the small town of Jancu (3950 m). Where we will begin or trek, we will walk about 3 hours to the Base Camp of Huamashraju (4550 m). We spend the night next to the lagoon.

 1 Hour approx 


 5 Hours approx



This morning we wake up very early at 2:00 am. We’ll start preparing breakfast and ready for climbing, we will check our equipment to climb to the top of Huamasharaju (5434 m). for 5 hours at a leisurely pace from the Summit we can see the Nevado Churup (5495 m), Nevado Vallunaraju (5686 m), Nevado Cashan (5716 m), Nevado Shacsha (5703 m), Nevado Huantsan (6395 m), after enjoy our Summit we return by the same route to the Camp.


 2 Hours approx

 9 Hours approx



This day after breakfast at 8:00 am. We will pick up our tents and mountain equipments, return to the village of Jancu (3900 m). where our private car will be waiting to return to the city of Huaraz (3100 m).


 5 Hours approx 

 1 Hour approx 



Included meals: B=breakfast; L=lunch; D=dinner

What's Included

Services included in the prices:

  • Peruvian qualified and experienced local guide/s
  • All meals during the tour
  • Camping tents (2 persons)
  • Porters Nevado Huamashraju (2 pax 1 porter)
  • Kitchen equipment
  • Cooks
  • Transportation as tour schedule / Huaraz

Not included:

  • International flights to Lima / Peru round trip
  • Transfer from the airport for bookings of individual flights with different times of arrival / departure
  • Exit tax at the airport in Lima
  • Travel accident and health insurance
  • Luggage insurance and trip cancellation
  • Meals in restaurants in Lima and Huaraz
  • Personal expenses
  • Acclimatization Tour
  • Entrance fees to the Huascaran National Park
  • Donkey driver and donkeys
  • Transfer from the Hotel to the airport and bus station
  • Domestic flight Airline ticket LC-Peru
  • Hotel Casa Andina 2 nights in Lima
  • Hotel San Sebastián 4 nights in Huaraz
  • Pick up at the airport in Lima to the Hotel
  • Personal equipment (such as boots, ice ax, crampons, harness, sleeping bag, mat, Goretex, etc.)
  • Tips

What to Bring

What to Bring or take fo Day Hiking and Technical Equipment for Climbing Expedition

This equipment list is compiled to provide you with adequate help when choosing your equipment for a climb. Most items are required. Please consider each of them and make sure you understand the function and exclusive use for mountaineering, before substituting or removing items from this list. Please note that this list has been carefully annotated by the organizer. Remember that mountaineering, mountaineering or mountaineering is an extreme, risky sport, therefore everything related to it is of great attention.

These items should be on your hiking checklist:

Hiking backpack for hiking 30 to 40 liters

Light gloves for hiking or (Optional Mittens waterproof)

Medium weight socks

Sleeping bag (-10º to 15ºC)

Small daypack for one day hiking 20 liters

Weather-appropriate clothing (think moisture-wicking and layers)

Hiking boots or shoes

Medium weight parka with fibber fill or down

Rain poncho (or rain gear)

Long-sleeved shirts

Fleece or Wool sweater and/or trousers

Lightweight pants

Cotton short-sleeved shirts or t-shirts

Water bottle for hiking or trekking

Strong waterproof duffel bag

Flashlight with spare batteries and bulb

Towel for personal hygiene each participantFirst-aid kit

Regular and long underwear

Knife or multi-tool

Light cap and wool hat

Sunglasses with UV certification, Sun block, lips

The rest of the list Essentials as appropriate for your hike

Grooming and personal hygiene kit

One Hiking Buff per person

Technical Equipment for High Altitude Expedition Mountains

3 Locking carabiners, we recommended per person

We recommend 2 ice screws for each client

1 Daisy Chain (Life Line) per each person

2 Ice axes (per person) technical, we recommended GRIVEL company

1 ATC descender (Rappel), this is very necessary for technical mountains

2 Cords for prusik, very important (Size Cord 6 mm x 10 m. long)

Gloves(Good gloves) for expeditions over 6000meters

Harness, we recommended GRIVEL company

Sleeping pad / Mattress, we recommend with air or inflatable mattress

Crampons, we recommended GRIVEL company

Walking sticks (optional), a pair per person, we recommended GRIVEL company

Down Jacket for expedition

Very important to have personal clothing such as pants and jacket with GOROTEX certification

First aid kit, for high mountains, because we as guides cannot medicate clients

Backpack Capacity 60 liters, it is better to have a bigger backpack to go comfortably to the high camps, because here you have to carry all your personal things

Gaiters or Leggings, now modern boots already have built-in (Incorporated), but better to have an extra pair

Dressing appropriately for the mountains can make the difference between a pleasant trip and a really uncomfortable one. Clothing must provide the right degree of temperature, perspiration and be well ventilated. Preferably cotton clothing should be avoided, as in humid conditions they absorb body heat.

In general, the weather conditions in in the Andes of South America can vary from day to day and even throughout the day. Therefore, clothing must be versatile.

Please do not hesitate to contact us with any questions you may have regarding the necessary equipment.

Prices & Dates




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Prices (per person):

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Trip-code: Number ►PE-000
Duration: 03 days
Participants: Minimal: 2 Maximal: 15
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Country / Location: Northern Peru
Mountain Guide: Juventino Albino Caldua
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Juventino Albino Caldua

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