Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club: Greetings from Peru! The Dos Piscas team successfully climbed the Alpamayo. The most beautiful and very technically difficult peak of Peru.
This year the mountain is more difficult than ever. Large extent of very hard sinter ice. The mountain is officially closed for climbing, and all other teams go to the neighboring mountain of Ketarahu. But the team persevered. And a 6-day approach through several passes. And a heavy lift. On August 12 at 8 am a team of 7 participants and 3 guides climbed to the top of Alpamayo.
VERTEX! The team of the 7 Summits Club climbed Alpamayo almost in full force, 7 Russians and 3 Peruvians
Hello! Dos Piscas team from Peru, Alexander Abramov. Today at exactly 8 o’clock in the morning our team climbed to the top of Alpamayo, consisting of seven participants and three guides. True, everyone did not even manage to gather at the top. Because the peak is small, so there were three or four people there – and immediately began the descent. Somewhere from 8 to 9 the whole team went through the top of Alpamayo. Congratulate us! This is a good event. There was no one around, the mountain is almost virgin. The weather was great. This is what helped us, of course. It was very cold and difficult. A little below the middle there was still snow, and then there was absolutely bare ice. For many, this was a very difficult ordeal. But, nevertheless, everyone showed themselves very well, held on. The mountain is one of the seven “Supermountains”, which includes technical peaks, the most famous, the most beautiful, unique on the continent. It was a heavy mountain… Now we have already descended to the assault camp and now we are starting to descend. Also in the gazebos, there will still be rappels. But I think that we have passed the main part of the route. So congratulate us: hooray! Never before has such a large number of Russians, yes, perhaps, from the CIS, been on this mountain at the same time. That is, we have seven Russians and three Peruvian guides at the same time. Everything. Thank you very much! Goodbye everyone! … Seven Supermountains. The next one is Ama Dablam in the fall. And probably also other mountains from the 7 SuperMountains project. Goodbye everyone! Bye!
The team of the 7 Summits Club went up to the assault camp and is preparing to go to Alpamayo
Alexander Abramov from Peru: Hello! Dos Piscas group from Peru. Today we approached the assault camp of Alpamayo. We are 8 people plus 4 local guides and about 10 local porters and 2 cooks…. The huge cavalcade looked very good on the snow-white torn glacier, along which we passed the last stage of our approach to the assault camp. The weather seems to be good, a little cloudy, but not critical. Tomorrow, even tonight, we are going to climb. And by the evening of tomorrow we should go down to the base camp. We’ll tell you tomorrow how it all goes. Bye for now! Until a new connection!