- Climb Alpamayo (5,947 m) – one of the most beautiful peaks in the world
- Ascend Chopicalqui (6,354 m) – in the Cordillera Blanca
- Stroll through “the Chamonix of the Cordillera Blanca” – Huaraz
- Acclimatize in the Cordillera Negra
- Rely on experienced local mountain guides with multiple summit successes
- Benefit from two summit options
- Enjoy unforgettable weeks filled with adventure in the Andes
For the second consecutive year, our company “Peru Expeditions Tours & Grupo Alpamayo Tours” has successfully led the opening of the route to Nevado Alpamayo, internationally recognized as one of the most beautiful mountains in the world. This year, our guides, certified by the AGMP-UIAGM, reached the summit of this stunning peak, offering participants an unparalleled experience. The expedition included 7 climbers from the renowned Austrian company Bergspechte Outdoor- und Alpinschule and the pioneering German company Hauser Exkursionen, who joined us on this remarkable adventure at the end of May 2024.
Additionally, we completed the ascent of Nevado Chopicalqui, a majestic mountain located in the heart of the Cordillera Blanca. We invite you to join our expeditions for the upcoming 2025 season and experience the thrill of conquering these extraordinary peaks alongside our expert team.
These two dream peaks, Alpamayo and Chopicalqui, are absolute highlights in mountaineering—not just in the Cordillera Blanca! Alpamayo, often referred to as the “most beautiful mountain in the world,” and the equally captivating Chopicalqui—both in terms of beauty and height—form a dream combination for climbers with advanced all-around skills and excellent physical fitness. While Chopicalqui is not an extremely difficult peak, it should not be underestimated due to its wild glaciers and seracs. Several steep sections with variable ice conditions require considerable mountaineering skills. Alpamayo, on the other hand, is technically much more challenging. Though a bit lower at just under 6,000 meters, it is by no means just an “acclimatization peak.” The southwest face, with its distinctive ridges (depending on conditions, either the Ferrari route or the steeper French route is climbed), presents ice-climbing difficulties up to 60 degrees in steepness, though fixed ropes significantly ease much of the ascent.
Travel Days:
21 days
Group Size:
4 - 8 people
Itinerary
Day 1 | Departure flight |
Day 2 | Arrival in Lima |
Day 3 | Drive to Huaraz |
Day 4 | Acclimatization hike to Laguna Wicacoch |
Day 5 | Acclimatization hike to Laguna Churup |
Day 6 | Acclimatization climb of Nevado Mateo (5,150 m) |
Day 7 | Santa Cruz trek towards Alpamayo |
Day 8 | Cross Punta Union Pass to Alpamayo Base Camp |
Day 9 | Ascent to Alpamayo Moraine Camp (4,900 m) |
Day 10 | Ascent to Alpamayo High Camp (5,300 m) |
Day 11 | Alpamayo summit day (5,947 m) |
Day 12 | Reserve day at High Camp or Base Camp |
Day 13 | Descent via Santa Cruz trek and return to Huaraz |
Day 14 | Rest day in Huaraz |
Day 15 | Transfer and ascent to Chopicalqui Moraine Camp |
Day 16 | Ascent to Chopicalqui High Camp (5,350 m) |
Day 17 | Chopicalqui summit day (6,345 m) |
Day 18 | Descent to Base Camp and return to Huaraz |
Day 19 | Return drive to Lima |
Day 20 | Lima |
Day 21 | Arrival back in Europe |
Travel overview
The Cordillera Blanca, or “White Range,” is the highest and most heavily glaciated tropical mountain range in South America. Chopicalqui lies next to Huascarán, the highest mountain in Peru and the seventh-highest in the Americas. Chopicalqui’s massive, ice-covered peak is striking, resembling a gleaming white shark fin. Seen from the camps, it truly looks like a mountain of Himalayan proportions. Nevado Alpamayo, standing just shy of 6,000 meters, is one of the Andes’ most prominent and challenging peaks, far from just an acclimatization mountain, though it naturally fulfills that role. The classic Ferrari route on Alpamayo’s 400-meter ice wall is typically equipped with fixed ropes, making it much easier to climb despite ice melt in recent years. However, due to the steepness (up to 55°), it is reserved for experienced climbers who can handle rope management independently. If ice conditions make the Ferrari route impassable, the neighboring and steeper French route (up to 60°) is used instead.
Requerimients
Excellent physical condition, mental strength, and exceptional all-around mountaineering skills on glaciers and steep ice slopes (crampon techniques, crevasse rescue). Experience in the Western Alps or at high altitudes is advantageous. Additional ice climbing experience is required for Alpamayo. Independence in mountain climbing and the ability to operate within a self-reliant rope team are essential. Under good conditions, Chopicalqui is not technically extremely difficult, but challenges depend primarily on the current glacier conditions. High camps are set up with the support of local guides and some helpers as porters. Group members will assist with camp setup, and there is an option to hire additional high-altitude porters for personal gear transport at extra cost. In the high camps, water will be melted, and food will be cooked together with the support team.
Accommodation
In Lima, we stay at the 3-star Kamana Hotel in the historic city center, with double rooms that have private bathrooms. In Huaraz, we either stay at the family-run 2-star Hotel Valery or the Hotel Ruby, both centrally located. Upon request, it’s often possible to book single rooms at an additional cost. During the mountain climbs, you will sleep in 2-person tents provided by our Peruvian agency. Single tents are only available in base camps for an extra fee. Single rooms in hotels and single tents in base camps can only be booked as part of a full package.
Meals
Breakfast is included during hotel stays. During trekking and climbing days, you will be provided with full board (breakfast, lunch, dinner), as well as snacks and afternoon tea. Meals are prepared by the support team at base camp, and water is melted and food prepared together with the local support team in the high camps.
Guidance
The expedition is led by a guide appointed by the organizer. The named guide in the program is informative and not legally binding, as changes may occur. The guide is responsible for the overall leadership of the group but does not serve as a personal mountain guide for each participant. Decisions and instructions made by the guide during the expedition must be followed. If a participant disobeys the guide’s decisions, the guide has the right to expel the participant from the expedition. The excluded participant must arrange for an early return at their own expense and responsibility. No refund claims will be granted to the excluded participant against the guide or Hauser-Exkursionen/Die BergSpechte. All participants are required to respect and assist one another and maintain a friendly, cooperative spirit. Respect for the guide and other local assistants and third parties is expected.
Climate
Seasons are reversed compared to Europe—winter in Peru corresponds to the European summer and vice versa. The dry season in the Andes highlands lasts from May to October, while the rainy season runs from November to April. Therefore, the best time for trekking and mountaineering is during the European summer.
Included Services:
English or German-speaking local mountain guides from/to Lima.
Full organization of the expedition.
UIAGM-certified local trekking and mountain guide.
Accommodation in hotels and tents.
Full board during trekking and summit climbs.
Breakfast during hotel stays.
Packed lunch for acclimatization hikes.
Transfers as per detailed program.
High-altitude porters for tents and cooking equipment.
Baggage transport to base camp.
Expedition cook and cooking equipment.
Base camp infrastructure (kitchen, dining, and toilet tents).
2-person tents at base and high camps.
National park entrance fees.
Travel health insurance.
Excluded Services:
Meals and drinks not listed
Individual excursions and sightseeing tours
Tips
Optional Services
Additional services available for booking:
- Custom flight offer from/to your preferred airport
- Single room/single tent: €650
- High-altitude porters for personal gear: €80/day
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